
It is necessary to clean the engine compartment of a car, but using a water gun to rinse it is not recommended. The reasons and the correct cleaning methods are as follows: Reasons not to use a water gun for rinsing: In addition to the engine itself, the engine compartment contains many electronic wiring and various sensors. After prolonged use and certain rubber aging, the sealing may not be optimal. Rinsing with water flow can cause electrical short circuits, and using a high-pressure water gun to clean the engine does not make it very clean. Correct method for cleaning the engine: Purchase a specialized foam spray for cleaning the engine compartment. Spray it on the dirty areas when the engine is cold to soften stubborn dirt, then wipe with a towel. If it still doesn't seem clean enough, you can use a damp towel for wiping, but be sure to cover the wire ends and sockets. Afterward, use a dry towel or highly absorbent newspaper to wipe the area.

My previous car went five years without an engine bay wash until a maintenance technician once pointed at the accumulated sludge inside and shook his head. He said even though it's hidden under the hood, that mix of dust and oil residue can absorb moisture and corrode wiring, especially in older cars where rust tends to form around electrical connectors. But when cleaning, never recklessly blast it with a high-pressure washer—I’ve seen someone short-circuit their alternator and end up paying over 800 bucks for repairs. Nowadays, I use a damp cloth wrapped around chopsticks to clean tight corners, focusing on areas around the throttle body, and give it a thorough wipe every six months. This also helps spot oil leaks early. After all, fixing electrical issues costs way more than wiping off dust, don’t you think?

Last time at the car wash, the attendant asked if I wanted an engine bay cleaning. I took a look at my three-year-old car – all the fuel lines and wiring were covered in a shell of dust. After researching, I learned that long-term accumulation of grease can cause rubber components to age and crack, and may even clog cooling vents leading to engine overheating. But directly hosing it down is too risky. My current method is to buy a can of engine bay-specific foam cleaner, spray it on, wait ten minutes, then rinse with low-pressure water mist. The key is to avoid the fuse box and air filter. Finally, I use an air gun to dry the crevices. During maintenance, I ask the mechanic to check it as part of the service – it’s both convenient and reassuring.

I also thought the engine compartment didn't need cleaning in the first two years of a new car, until I smelled a burning odor during summer heat. The mechanic said the radiator fins were clogged with poplar and willow catkins, and the engine almost overheated. Now I clean it before every summer: first disconnect the negative battery terminal, use a soft brush to remove leaves and insect remains, and cover delicate components with waterproof film. I dare not use a high-pressure washer; after wiping with a damp cloth, I use compressed air to dry the spark plug grooves. Although it's troublesome, considering the improved cooling efficiency and extended belt life, the half-hour spent is worth it.


