
Inspect the chassis; as long as there are no leaks or deformation of mechanical parts, it should be fine. Below are specific details on protecting the car chassis: 1. Anti-corrosion for the chassis: Rust on cars usually starts from the bottom plate. Even cars that have only been driven for two or three years may show rust spots on the side beams. Every time you wash the car, residual dirty water can remain at the bottom, which over time can become a potential factor for corrosion, damaging your beloved vehicle. If you apply a sealant to the car's underside, even acid rain, snow-melting agents, or alkaline car wash water cannot penetrate this protective layer. 2. Protection against stone impacts: While driving, small stones can be kicked up by the tires. The force of these stones hitting the underside of the car is proportional to your speed. For example, a 10-gram small stone at a speed of 80 km/h can have an impact force 100 times its own weight, enough to break through paint layers thinner than 30 microns. Once the paint is breached, rust starts at the damaged spot and slowly spreads from within the metal plate. If the car's underside is sealed with a protective layer, even a 5 kg impact from gravel cannot break through it. 3. Vibration damping: The engine and wheels are fixed to the car's chassis, and their vibrations can resonate with the underside at certain frequencies, causing discomfort. The underside protection can eliminate some of this resonance.

Last time I reversed without noticing the curb, the front undercarriage scraped hard with a loud clunk, so I quickly got down to check. Scratches on the plastic guard plate are fine, but if you find black oil stains, be alert for a cracked oil pan. Focus on checking the extent of metal deformation on the engine guard plate and whether any fluid pipes are leaking, especially under the engine and transmission area. Listen, if after a metal collision sound, the car pulls to one side or there are strange noises from the undercarriage while driving, the suspension links might be damaged. Don’t just look at the surface—finding oil stains in your parking spot days later is real trouble. Like my neighbor who ignored a scrape, only to end up with a completely drained transmission a week later, costing thousands in major repairs.

Having repaired cars for ten years, I handle three to four vehicles with undercarriage scrapes daily. The key is assessing the location and depth: if only the resin engine underguard is scratched, replacing it costs a few hundred yuan. However, metal grinding sounds demand caution. Essential checks include whether the oil pan is deformed or leaking, if the transmission casing has cracks, and if the mid-section of the exhaust pipe is dented. For electric vehicles, pay extra attention to the depth of scratches on the battery pack casing. Here’s a professional tip: many cars have low front sections on their chassis longitudinal beams; even slight dents can cause wheel alignment deviations, leading to steering drift and uneven tire wear. For safety, a lift inspection is recommended, and using an endoscope to examine hidden areas is advisable.

It's quite common for beginners to scrape the undercarriage. I just experienced it last month. The speed bump in my neighborhood was too high, and there was a loud 'thud' when I went over it. Don't panic, and don't turn off the engine immediately. Use your phone's flashlight to check under the front of the car: scratches on the resin underguard are fine, but deformation of metal parts is troublesome. Focus on feeling around the oil pan for any oil stains and check if the steering tie rod is bent. On the way home, pay attention to the oil warning light on the dashboard and listen for any metal scraping sounds from the undercarriage. In my case, it was just a clip on the underguard that came off, and it cost 80 yuan to reattach it. But my colleague's Nissan scraped the oil pan, leaked all the oil, and caused engine seizure, resulting in a major repair costing over ten thousand yuan.


