
Towing a car with a strap, often called flat towing or dinghy towing, is a valid method for short-distance recovery, but it requires careful attention to safety and legality. The core process involves securely attaching a heavy-duty tow strap to the structural frame points of both vehicles, maintaining a very short distance between them, and driving at low speeds with clear communication.
Essential Equipment and Vehicle Checks Before starting, you need a rated tow strap (not a kinetic recovery rope), proper tow points on both vehicles, and safety gear like hazard lights and safety triangles. Never attach a strap to a bumper, suspension components, or a trailer hitch ball, as these can fail catastrophically. Consult both vehicle owner's manuals to confirm they can be towed with all four wheels on the ground; some all-wheel-drive (AWD) or dual-clutch transmission vehicles can suffer severe damage.
| Critical Towing Considerations | Data & Specifications |
|---|---|
| Maximum Towing Speed | 25-35 mph (40-55 km/h) |
| Recommended Tow Strap Length | 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters) |
| Minimum Tow Strap Strength | 10,000 lbs (4,536 kg) capacity |
| Required Distance Between Vehicles | 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 meters) to prevent collision |
| Requirement for Most States | "ON TOW" or "IN TOW" sign visible on rear vehicle |
The Step-by-Step Process
This method is inherently risky and is best suited for moving a disabled car a few blocks to a safe location, not for long-distance travel. If in doubt, calling a professional tow truck is always the safest choice.

Did it once to help a buddy. You absolutely need real tow points on both cars—don’t just loop it around the axle. Keep the distance short, like the length of the strap itself. The guy in front needs to drive like there’s a full cup of coffee on the dash: super smooth. No sudden stops or starts. The trick is for the second driver to keep just enough pressure on the brake to keep the strap tight. We did it at like 15 mph with the flashers on, just to get it off the main road. It’s nerve-wracking, but it works in a pinch.

I strongly advise checking your local laws before attempting this. Many states have specific rules about safety chains, lighting, and maximum distances for strap towing. The primary risk is the lack of braking in the towed vehicle. If the lead car brakes hard, the towed car can easily collide with it. This method should only be a last resort for moving a vehicle a very short distance at low speed. For anything beyond a few hundred yards, or on public roads, a proper dolly or flatbed tow truck is significantly safer and legally compliant.

We learned the hard way when our old sedan died in a parking lot. The key is communication. My husband was in the truck towing, and I was in the car behind. We kept our phones on . He’d say "slowing down a bit" or "turning right," and I’d gently press the brake to keep us from getting too close. You have to steer the dead car, so make sure the ignition is on to unlock the steering wheel. It feels weird at first, but you get a rhythm. Just go slow and plan your route to avoid busy streets.

Here's the breakdown. First, confirm both vehicles have OEM tow hooks. Connect the strap securely. The driver in front eases forward to remove slack. Both turn on hazard lights. The lead driver accelerates gently and brakes early, anticipating stops. The following driver keeps the steering straight and uses brakes lightly to maintain tension. The goal is to move the disabled vehicle to a safe location, not to travel cross-country. Constant, gentle pressure is the secret. Any jerking motion is dangerous and can damage the vehicles or the strap.


