How to Tell if the Car You're Picking Up is New?
4 Answers
Introduction to determining whether the car is new when picking it up: 1. Check the manufacturing date. If the manufacturing date is close to the pickup date, it is a new car. Conversely, if the manufacturing date is far from the pickup date, it may be an old car or a problematic car. 2. Verify whether the engine model, engine number, and chassis number match the manual. Check the vehicle's certificate of conformity and other relevant documents, and inspect the car body paint for any damage. Ensure the paint color matches the manual. 3. Open the hood and check if the engine has severe oil stains and whether all parts are clean. 4. Start the car, lightly press the accelerator, and listen for any abnormal noises or unusual vibrations. Check if the dashboard tachometer is functioning normally and if the odometer displays normal data (a new car's odometer should not exceed 30 kilometers). 5. Turn on the audio system, wipers, air conditioning, and other electronic devices to ensure they operate normally. 6. Test all switches multiple times to check for any abnormal sounds. Inspect the tire pressure, ensure the tires are brand new, and look for any scratches.
When picking up a new car, there are several key points to check. First, check the mileage—it should generally be under 50 km; anything significantly higher might mean it was used as a display car. Then, crouch down and inspect the chassis and exhaust pipe—a new car's chassis should be clean with no mud, and the inner walls of the exhaust pipe should be free of dust. The engine oil should not be black; it should be clear and bright yellow for peace of mind. Check the production dates on all the car's glass—the small dot codes should match. The tire tread hairs must still be present; if they're smooth when you run your hand over them, there's an issue. The most crucial step is to note down the VIN and check the maintenance records at the service center—a new car should have zero records. Remember to bring your phone and take detailed photos of the entire car as evidence.
On the day I picked up the car, I brought along a friend who has been repairing cars for over a decade. He taught me to directly feel the edge of the brake discs—if there's a noticeable ridge, it means the car has been driven hard. Open the hood and inspect the screws at all component connections; any signs of tampering are a red flag. The spare tire well in the trunk must be dry with no water stains—even after rain, a new car shouldn’t have standing water. It’s crucial to get down and check the underbody panels for any scratches. Also, a heads-up: many infotainment systems now require activation and registration—if you find existing account info in the system, refuse delivery immediately! Finally, don’t fall for the sales pitch; peel off the seat covers to check for creases in the leather—that’s the real test.
These paper documents are more important than inspecting the car: If the original vehicle qualification certificate is not provided on the spot, it might be a mortgaged vehicle. The amount on the purchase invoice must match what you actually paid. A warranty certificate without a stamp is as good as scrap paper. Remember to verify if the VIN on the vehicle conformity certificate matches the actual car—the barcode at the bottom left of the windshield is often overlooked. You must obtain the PDI inspection report; salespeople who say signing isn't necessary are lying. Also, check the date on the delivery note—I've seen dealerships deliver cars that have been in stock for six months as new. If you find any issues with the paperwork before registration, you can demand a replacement or refund. Don't believe the salesperson's promises to fix it later—that's nonsense.
