How to Solve the Oil Burning Issue in Wey VV7?

[DiPeyton]

Replace with higher viscosity engine oil, which can help alleviate the issue, you may consider trying this. Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber can cause the piston rings to stick, leading to poor sealing. In such cases, it is necessary to remove the carbon deposits and replace the piston rings.

[MacLily]

My WEY VV7 also had oil burning issues before, and it was quite a hassle. Don't rush to dismantle the engine—first check if the valve stem seals are aged. If these leak, oil can sneak into the combustion chamber. A damaged turbocharger seal can also cause oil burning. Shine a flashlight on the intercooler pipe; if you spot oil stains, this might be the issue. Piston ring carbon buildup and sticking are the most troublesome—you'll need to measure cylinder pressure. If there's over a 10% difference, consider opening the engine to replace the rings. Also, don't use just any oil; stick to the manual's 0W-40 requirement. Oil with too low viscosity can evaporate under high heat. If the dipstick drops below the lower limit within 2,000 km, head to the dealership for a computer check on crankcase pressure—don't wait until cylinder scoring costs you tens of thousands in repairs. And avoid flooring the accelerator; driving gently is better for the car.

[MacJeffrey]

My friend just dealt with his VV7's oil burning issue, and I picked up a few tricks. First, try replacing the PCV valve—a clogged valve can cause excessive crankcase pressure, sucking oil into the intake pipe. Then, inspect the turbocharger's intake and exhaust pipes; oily traces indicate leaks. For piston ring issues, check the exhaust pipe—blue smoke at cold start is a dead giveaway. The most cost-effective solution is to start with a piston ring release agent and use a cleaning-type fuel additive for three consecutive fuel tanks. Carbon deposits may soften and restore sealing. Choose A3/B4-certified high-ash oil for better cylinder wall protection. Don’t fall for those online 'no-disassembly repair kits'—they’re just temporary fixes. If it needs disassembly, just do it.

[Rochelle]

My car repair experience shows that oil burning can be categorized into three levels. For mild oil burning, simply replacing the valve stem seals will suffice, as rubber component aging is a common issue. For moderate cases, focus on inspecting cylinder wall wear, using a borescope to check for scoring. Severe oil burning typically requires replacing the piston ring set, especially if the oil return holes in the oil ring are clogged. Pay strict attention to cleanliness during the operation, as dust entering the cylinder can cause secondary damage. Before installing new piston rings, soak them in engine oil, and ensure the installation angles are precise. After a major overhaul, avoid exceeding 80 km/h for the first 500 kilometers and use mineral oil for gentle break-in. Additionally, check the PCV valve and turbocharger seals, as multiple issues often coexist. Remember to frequently check the dipstick within the first 2,000 kilometers after repair.