
Check if the free travel of the clutch lever is too large, and adjust it if necessary. Inspect the wear condition of the clutch friction plates and whether the adjustment bolts are loose, and replace the friction plates in time. Check the length and elasticity of the clutch springs, and replace them if they do not meet the requirements. For oil-type clutches, check the viscosity of the engine oil inside, and replace it with new oil if the viscosity is too high.

I've been riding motorcycles for over a decade, and incomplete clutch disengagement is something I've seen quite often. The most common causes are either the clutch cable being too tight or the free play being improperly adjusted. Try adjusting the small nut near the handle—leaving about 5-10 mm of free play is ideal. If the problem persists after adjustment, chances are you'll need to open it up and inspect the clutch plates—worn, deformed, or broken retaining rings all require replacement. Oil that's too thick can also prevent the clutch from disengaging properly; switching to oil with the right seasonal viscosity rating can make an immediate difference. If you can't fix it yourself, take it to a shop—don't force it, as it can damage the transmission.

Our repair shop handles this job every day. Diagnosing unclear clutch disengagement mainly involves three steps. First, adjust the clutch cable free play—the standard is about 1 cm of slack when pulling the lever. Then check the engine oil; high-viscosity oil can easily cause clutch drag in winter, so try switching to a thinner 10W-40. Finally, inspect the clutch assembly—if the small spring is broken or the pressure plate is warped, they need replacement. During repairs, also check if the clutch push rod is sticking, as this can also lead to poor disengagement.

Last track day, my teammate had a clutch that wouldn't disengage, but he fixed it himself in half an hour. Focus on checking three areas: clutch cable tension, clutch plate thickness, and oil condition. If the cable is too tight, the clutch pressure plate won't fully disengage; if the clutch plate is worn down to the rivets, it must be replaced; if the oil is too viscous, switch to a high-flow full synthetic. When adjusting the cable, leave a half-finger width gap at the lever end. If the car can be pushed while in gear, the disengagement is basically normal.


