
Check the charging system. If the power supply voltage is below 10.5V, the ABS system will shut down, causing the ABS indicator light to illuminate. Loosen the ground fixing screw of the hydraulic valve body, then tighten the fixing screw. Clean the contact surface if necessary. Check if the connector gap has widened. Replace the ABS computer, referring to the vehicle's tire specifications and wheel rim specifications, as well as the label near the fuel tank cap. Start the engine, press the brake pedal, use your finger to push the brake switch linkage all the way down, then release the brake pedal to complete the position setting. Replace the brake light switch.

I've encountered the issue of the car not starting several times, and just last month I managed to fix it myself. First, don't panic—most of the time it's due to a dead battery. Try turning the key to see if there's a clicking sound or no response at all. A clicking sound indicates that the starter is turning but doesn't have enough power, which is likely a battery issue. You can solve this by jump-starting the car with a friend's vehicle. If there's no sound at all, check if the battery terminals are loose or corroded. Sanding them down might do the trick. Another easily overlooked issue is a dead key fob or a malfunctioning anti-theft system—try using the spare key to start the car. If none of these work, it could be a faulty starter or a failing fuel pump, in which case you'll need to call a tow truck and take it to the repair shop. Remember, in winter, low temperatures can cause the battery to fail more easily, so regular checks are crucial.

Veteran drivers advise: Don't rush to call for roadside assistance when your car won't start, many minor issues can be fixed yourself. Having driven over a dozen cars, I've summarized key points: First check dashboard warning lights - illuminated ones may indicate electrical glitches. Second listen to cranking sounds - rapid clicking usually means battery issues while complete silence suggests checking fuses. For manual transmissions, try starting in neutral while depressing the clutch multiple times. Automatic transmission users must ensure gearshift is firmly in Park - some models stubbornly refuse to start otherwise. Pro tip: Always verify actual fuel level, I've seen cases where faulty fuel gauges showed reserves when tanks were actually empty.

Start with the simplest checks when the car won't start. Last time I encountered this, it took me five minutes to fix. First, try wiggling the steering wheel left and right before turning the key - a locked steering wheel can prevent ignition. Then press the horn to see if it sounds; if the horn is weak, the battery is likely dead. If you hear crackling sounds during startup but the engine won't fire, it's probably due to carbon buildup on the spark plugs or issues with the ignition coil. You can get a general idea by removing and inspecting the color of the spark plug electrodes. Remember, if you have difficulty starting a cold engine, a dirty throttle body is often the culprit and needs cleaning.

I've seen all kinds of cases where cars won't start during repairs. The key is to distinguish whether it's an electrical circuit issue or a fuel system problem. For electrical issues, check the brightness of the headlights—if they noticeably dim when turned on, the battery is dead. For fuel system problems, listen for the sound of the fuel pump. When you turn the key to the ON position, there should be a humming sound under the rear seat; no sound means the fuel pump or relay is faulty. Nowadays, new cars have many electronic components, and issues like ECU failure or sensor malfunctions can also prevent the car from starting. In such cases, you must connect a diagnostic tool to read the fault codes. Actually, the easiest solution is to keep an emergency jump starter in the trunk—it can be a lifesaver in critical moments.


