
Users can only drive the car to a 4S shop and have the staff use a computer to clear the fault light. When the engine fault light is on, the SET fault light cannot be manually reset. It usually requires using a fault diagnostic tool at a 4S shop for troubleshooting before it can be cleared. Additional information: Understanding car indicator lights: 1. Oil pressure fault light: Indicates that the oil level and pressure are below the standard value. Continuing to drive may cause the engine to lose lubrication, leading to severe wear. If the fault light remains after adding oil, do not start the vehicle and contact rescue services as soon as possible. 2. Coolant temperature warning light: Displays the temperature of the coolant in the vehicle's engine. Some models without a coolant temperature gauge (such as Great Wall compact car series) use the color of the indicator light to show the coolant temperature: blue indicates the coolant temperature is too low, and the light turning off indicates the temperature is normal. 3. Brake system fault light: If the brake system fault light comes on, first check if the handbrake is fully released. If the light remains on after releasing the handbrake, check if the brake fluid level is normal or if the brake pads are too thin. If the braking force is not weakened, you can drive cautiously and go to the nearest repair shop as soon as possible.

The SET light usually indicates the cruise control system. I've encountered it several times myself. It typically lights up right after setting the cruise speed, showing the system is ready. If it lights up unexpectedly or stays on constantly, you should pay attention. First, try the simplest solution: hold the Cancel button on the steering wheel for more than three seconds to see if it turns off. Then check the brake light switch—sometimes a faulty part can mistakenly trigger the system. Once, I specifically went to a professional shop to read the fault codes and found it was a wheel speed sensor error causing the computer to misjudge. If you can't fix it yourself, don't force it, especially when driving on the highway—sudden system failure can be very dangerous. It's best to go to a 4S shop as soon as possible to connect to a diagnostic computer; they can determine within ten minutes whether it's a software issue or a sensor fault. During regular maintenance, you can have them check the cruise control system wiring as a preventive measure—this can avoid many problems.

As someone who frequently drives long distances, I'm particularly sensitive to the SET light. In most cases, this light indicates that the cruise control is active, but abnormal illumination may signal a system malfunction. The operating sequence I've summarized is quite practical: first slow down to a safe area, turn off the cruise control master switch (usually located on the steering wheel), then restart the vehicle. Last month, I encountered a situation where the light remained on constantly, and it turned out to be a stuck steering wheel button - a quick spray of electronic cleaner solved the problem. Also, pay attention to the position of the floor mats; a friend's car had the cruise control mistakenly triggered because the floor mat was interfering with the throttle cable. Carbon buildup in the electronic throttle can also cause this issue, making regular cleaning essential. If none of these methods work, I recommend using an OBD scanner to check for trouble codes - a tool costing just a few dozen dollars can handle this yourself. However, note that the diagnostic port location varies by brand: German cars typically have it under the steering wheel, while Japanese cars often place it near the accelerator pedal.

The abnormal illumination of the SET light is actually quite complex in terms of its causes. From the perspective of vehicle control principles, it's a signal emitted by the body control module. Beyond the common issues like button jams and sensor malfunctions, the high-pressure signal from the air conditioning system can also interfere with it—I once had an older car where the light kept coming on for this reason. Focus on inspecting three key components: the steering wheel cruise control switch assembly, the brake switch, and the wheel speed sensor, as these are the most likely culprits. The quickest fix is a power reset: disconnect the negative battery terminal for ten minutes and then reconnect it, effectively rebooting the system. However, in modern vehicles, disconnecting the battery might affect the window memory function, so keep the key fob at a distance before performing this operation. For those who have modified their steering wheels, be aware that mismatched replacement button modules and original vehicle protocols are the most common causes of this issue. In some cases, it's a software bug, and a simple ECU upgrade at the dealership will resolve it. When handling the issue, be cautious with the airbag connectors—never unplug them while the system is powered.


