How to Replace Transmission Oil with a Flushing Machine?

[LeviDella]

There are currently two common methods for replacing transmission oil with a flushing machine: gravity oil change and flushing machine oil change. A flushing machine is a device that utilizes pressure to dynamically replace automatic transmission fluid. The principle involves simultaneously extracting the old oil and injecting new oil, using pressure to push out the old oil with the new oil. The advantages of using a flushing machine for oil change are as follows: 1. The oil change is more thorough, with an oil change rate of over 95%. 2. It is simple and labor-saving. 3. It can clean the internal sludge and metal debris of the automatic transmission, thereby appropriately extending the maintenance cycle of the transmission oil.

[VonMargaret]

Last time I helped my neighbor change the transmission fluid using a flushing machine, I realized there's real technique involved. The mechanic first lifted the car on a hoist and located the drain plug on the oil pan to remove the old fluid. The crucial part was connecting the two transparent hoses of the flushing machine to the transmission cooling lines - the red hose for new fluid in and the blue hose for old fluid out. Getting them reversed would mess everything up. When starting the engine, the machine worked like an IV drip, gradually turning the murky transmission fluid clear. The whole process required monitoring the movement of the interface between old and new fluid in the graduated tube. Finally, we had to verify the dipstick level with the new fluid at operating temperature - even a single drop too much or too little could affect shift smoothness. I recommend test driving a few kilometers at low speeds after the change to let the new fluid fully saturate the clutch plates. Only when the gearshift hesitation disappears can you consider it a true success.

[Taylor]

The biggest concern with using a circulation machine for oil changes is encountering sludge blockage in older vehicles. I recommend first removing the oil pan for inspection. I've seen many cars with metal shavings stuck to the magnet and filters clogged with gummy deposits - these require manual cleaning before using the machine. During operation, pay special attention to oil pressure readings, as excessive pressure can damage seals. Also, don't cheap out on off-brand oils - last time a customer used oil with incorrect viscosity, the transmission immediately went into protection mode. Actually, DIY isn't difficult; just prepare a 12mm socket wrench and measuring cup. However, you'll need to rent professional equipment for the oil changer, costing about 300 yuan - more than half the price of dealership service.

[DiJameson]

The transmission is like the human blood vessels, and oil changes must be thorough. The circulation machine can remove over 90% of the old oil, extracting three times more waste fluid compared to gravity draining. The key operation is maintaining engine idle speed and establishing a closed-loop system through the cooling oil lines. Pay attention when the old oil color in the transparent tube changes from soy-sauce brown to the cherry red of new oil, and the flow meter shows a 1:1 ratio of old to new oil—that's when you should stop the machine. Special reminder: for hybrid models, disconnect the high-voltage electricity, and keep the oil temperature within the 40-60°C range for accuracy. Finally, during the road test, focus on listening for any whining sounds from the torque converter, as this is often a sign of insufficient oil.