
The method for replacing coolant in the New Bora is as follows: Before completely replacing the coolant, conduct a thorough inspection to check for any signs of leakage or cracks in the pipelines, with a focus on the five-way water pipe. The coolant flows through the five-way pipe and is then distributed to different parts of the car to function. If there is any leakage of coolant in this section, replace the water pipe or re-secure the connection as needed. Drain the old coolant, then flush the liquid channels with clean water. Add clean water to the coolant reservoir, then continuously inject water into the reservoir so that it flows through the engine cooling system. Start the engine and let it idle for 3 to 5 minutes to circulate the water. Initially, the water flowing out of the reservoir will be slightly pinkish. Continue adding clean water until the water coming out is clear. Note: Don't forget to remove the heater hose and drain the water from the heater core. After draining for about an hour, add the new coolant through the radiator hose. Then, add another container of coolant to the reservoir until it is nearly full. Start the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes. At this point, the coolant level will drop slightly as some air is expelled from the cooling system. Add more coolant until it reaches the "MAXT" mark on the reservoir.

I've been changing the coolant in my car for several years, and I find the design of the New Bora quite convenient. First, park the car on level ground and wait for the engine to cool down completely—never operate when it's hot, as steam can scald your hands. Then locate the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator, use a wrench to open it, and let the old coolant flow into a container. Once fully drained, you can flush the system with a bit of clean water, but don’t pour too much to avoid affecting the mixture ratio. Next, tighten the drain valve and pour in new coolant, making sure to use the type specified by the manufacturer—don’t mix brands randomly. Fill it up to the MAX line marked on the reservoir. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes, turn the AC to maximum heat, and after the fan kicks in, stop the engine and check the fluid level for a top-up. Finally, remember to dispose of the old coolant at a recycling station—environmental responsibility matters. Regular changes prevent engine overheating and rust, saving you a lot on repair costs.

As an experienced driver who has driven many cars, I believe antifreeze replacement requires careful attention. The steps are not difficult: wait for the car to cool down, wear gloves to protect your hands, locate the hose under the radiator to drain the old fluid. After draining, add new antifreeze, making sure the fluid level doesn't exceed the MAX line. After replacement, start the car and drive for a short while to check that the temperature gauge is normal and there are no leaks. The key is regular inspection and maintenance; it's recommended to change it every two years or after 40,000 kilometers to prevent cooling system corrosion and avoid breakdowns. Also, choose genuine antifreeze quality, don't be tempted by cheap fakes. Doing it yourself not only saves money but also helps you better understand your car's condition, ensuring safe driving.

As a first-time DIY coolant changer who learned from videos, here's my experience: Wait until the car completely cools down, locate the radiator drain plug or screw to empty old fluid. Use a pan to catch waste liquid, pour new coolant slowly to avoid spills. Start the engine for a few minutes to warm up, check if the level stabilizes - job done. Simple operation but requires patience. Regular replacement protects engines from freeze cracks. I recommend preparing tools like gloves and containers in advance.

In daily car use, I save costs by changing the coolant through simple steps. After the engine cools, open the drain valve to let the old fluid out—take your time. Add new fluid up to the MAX line, ensuring the right type for compatibility. After replacement, take a short drive to test the system. Perform this maintenance every two to three years. All you need are a wrench and a basin—simple, practical, and reduces shop visits.


