
Method for replacing coolant in Kia K3: 1. Remove the water pipe and drain the water from the lower pipe on the radiator side; 2. Simultaneously blow air at the expansion tank to ensure the water drains as thoroughly as possible; 3. After the water has drained, reattach the lower pipe and add coolant; 4. Remember to bleed the system after adding coolant. The Kia K3 should have coolant added when the engine is cool. The coolant level should be between the F (Full) and L (Low) marks on the side of the auxiliary tank. The Kia K3 is the third model in the K series introduced by Dongfeng Yueda Kia, equipped with the same powertrain as the Hyundai Elantra, featuring 1.6L and 1.8L engines. In terms of body dimensions, the Kia K3 measures 4600mm in length, 1780mm in width, 1445mm in height, with a wheelbase of 2700mm.

I always pay special attention to the procedure when changing the coolant myself, as it's crucial for engine protection. First, park the Kia K3 on level ground and turn off the engine, then wait until it cools down completely before opening the hood. Lay a cloth over the expansion tank cap before unscrewing it to prevent liquid splashing, then locate the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and loosen it with a wrench—remember to use a large basin to catch the old fluid. After draining all the old fluid, it's best to flush the system twice with distilled water before sealing the drain plug, then pour new coolant into the expansion tank up to the middle mark. Start the engine to let the coolant reach normal operating temperature, run the heater for about 15 minutes to purge air from the system, and finally top up the coolant and tighten the cap securely. Always wear protective gloves and goggles throughout the process, as coolant can irritate the skin. The whole procedure takes about half an hour, and it's recommended to change the coolant every two years or 60,000 kilometers.

That time I helped my neighbor replace the K3 coolant, a minor accident taught me the key points. Just prepared wrenches, new coolant, and a basin, but forgot to wait for the engine to cool down before starting, almost got scalded by the hot steam. The drain valve is a plastic screw at the bottom left of the radiator, unscrewed it and spilled everywhere, later learned to lay a tarp beforehand. Remember to buy coolant of the corresponding color, mixing them can cause scaling. When refilling, found the level wouldn't rise, turned out forgot to bleed the air. After starting the engine, set the heater to the highest setting, wait until the air vents blow stable hot air, then top up to the standard line. Finally, especially check if the hose connections are leaking, these small details are crucial. DIY saves 200 in labor, but improper operation may clog the radiator.

The replacement steps are actually quite simple: Open the engine hood when the car is cold, locate the drain valve which is a coin-sized bolt at the lower right corner of the radiator. Loosen it to drain the old fluid, flush twice with new coolant, then refill up to the MAX line. Pay special attention to turning on the heating system after ignition until the temperature gauge reaches the midpoint—this helps remove air bubbles from the circulation system. I timed it with my phone and the bleeding process took exactly ten minutes, then just top up to the proper level and you're done. The most common mistake in this process is failing to bleed the air—last year, a mechanic friend told me 80% of related failures are caused by this.


