How to Replace Coolant for the New Sail 1.4?

[DelHector]

The method for replacing coolant in the New Sail 1.4 is as follows: 1. Turn off the engine and wait for 10 minutes before opening the radiator cap; 2. Unscrew the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator to drain all residual coolant from the engine block; 3. When no more coolant flows out, tighten the drain valve and the engine block drain plug; 4. Slowly pour new coolant into the radiator until it reaches the maximum level mark; 5. Tighten the radiator cap and close the hood. Taking the 2013 Sail 1.4L Manual Ideal Happiness Edition as an example, it is a compact 4-door 5-seater sedan with body dimensions of 4249mm in length, 1690mm in width, and 1503mm in height, with a wheelbase of 2465mm. It is equipped with a 1.4L naturally aspirated engine and a 5-speed manual transmission, delivering a maximum power of 76kW and a maximum torque of 131Nm.

[Laila]

I've had this new Sail 1.4 for five years and changed the coolant three times. First, wait for the engine to cool completely, then open the hood and locate the plastic drain valve under the radiator. Prepare a large basin to catch the old coolant—the smell is really strong! Be careful when opening the valve; it can spray everywhere. After draining, tighten the valve and add new coolant through the expansion tank until it reaches the MAX line. Here's the key: start the car and turn on the heater. When the temperature gauge reaches the midpoint and the fan starts running, the coolant level will suddenly drop. Quickly top it up to the standard line. After the change, check the level again after driving for a couple of days—older cars tend to have air bubbles that require two rounds of bleeding. Remember to wear gloves; coolant is sticky and hard to wash off if it gets on your hands.

[AngelinaFitz]

Before starting, you'll need two things: a 4-liter container of antifreeze and an open-end wrench. The drain valve on my new Sail is located at the bottom right corner of the radiator, made of black plastic. The safest time to operate is when the engine is cold - you'll hear a hissing sound when unscrewing the valve, indicating the seal has opened. After the old fluid drains completely, use compressed air to blow out the pipes, otherwise residual fluid mixing with new antifreeze will lower the freezing point. Don't pour too quickly when refilling to avoid trapping air. After starting the engine, let the coolant temperature rise completely - it's best to drive a few kilometers. During testing, feel the temperature difference between upper and lower radiator hoses - a big difference means air isn't fully purged. -25°C antifreeze is sufficient for southern regions, while northern areas require -40°C. Changing it every two years is definitely the right approach.

[LeJayce]

Three simple steps: Wait for the car to cool down completely, drain the old fluid and add new fluid, then bleed the system. The expansion tank cap on the new Sail 1.4 has a warning sticker—turn it counterclockwise slowly to avoid pressure spray. The drain valve only needs to be turned 90 degrees; fully removing it might cause the seal ring to get lost. When pouring new fluid, don’t exceed the MAX line on the expansion tank, or thermal expansion may cause overflow. During the test drive, keep an eye on the temperature gauge—if the needle goes past halfway, stop and check. Store leftover coolant in a cool place with the cap tightly sealed; it can last up to a year. Mixing different-colored coolants can cause gel formation, so flush the system thoroughly if needed.