
Use a leather cleaner, thoroughly wet it, then apply it to the leather surface. Scrub the surface repeatedly with a brush, and after cleaning, wipe off the residue with a cotton cloth. When using a film remover, pay attention to the type of leather being repaired. Genuine leather requires a mild film remover. Use a spatula to evenly apply leather repair paste to the cracked area, then dry it with an electric fan. Once dry, sand it smooth with 400-600 grit sandpaper. Shake the leather renewal colorant well to ensure thorough mixing, then brush it onto the leather surface. After the first coat, dry it with a fan, and repeat the process at least three times.

Last time I got a big tear on my seat. First, I cleaned the damaged area with a damp towel and let it dry. Then I bought a leather repair compound. Choosing the right color is crucial – you need to compare it with the leather under sunlight. I used cotton swabs to slowly fill in the scratches, applying one layer and waiting half an hour before adding the second. For deeper cracks, you need to apply a base coat first, and finally use a hairdryer on low heat to set it. If the wear is severe, it's better to replace the leather entirely, as repairs might affect ventilation. DIY saves money but is time-consuming – after finishing, I had to apply leather conditioner to prevent aging. Small damages are manageable, but for major tears, it's best to visit professional shops with heat-press technology for longer-lasting results.

After five years of use, the leather seats in my car have started to flake. To repair them, first assess the extent of the damage. Minor scratches can be treated with a specialized leather cleaner—avoid using regular detergents as they can corrode the leather. For holes, you'll need to fill them with a color-matched repair paste. I had to experiment with mixing a few shades to get an exact match for my car's original color. Remember to wear disposable gloves during the repair, use a scraper to smooth the edges of the patch, and allow it to dry thoroughly before using the seat. Regular maintenance is also crucial—I use a neutral leather conditioner monthly to prevent cracking. For older vehicles, consider adding seat covers for extra protection, though long-term repair results may not be as effective.

The leather on the side of my driver's seat got scratched by keys, but the repair steps are simple: First, clean off the debris, then fill the crack with repair glue, and press the surface firmly after filling. The key is to buy high-quality repair compound—cheap ones tend to stay sticky. Small damages are quite convenient to fix yourself; I got it done in twenty minutes. However, don’t force it if there’s a large piece missing, as aged leather doesn’t bond well. After repair, avoid water contact for at least two days, and slight color differences are normal. Always be careful not to let sharp objects touch the seat, and regular cleaning can extend its lifespan. Repair compounds come in oil-based and water-based varieties—I recommend oil-based for better durability.

Don't panic when encountering leather seat damage. Minor scratches can be wiped off with wet wipes. For cracks, follow these three steps: First, sand the edges to smooth the repair surface, then apply repair paste until fully covered, and finally polish. I prefer using water-based repair solutions as they dry quickly and are eco-friendly without odor. If the seam is split, it's best to reinforce it with professional stitching, as DIY attempts may leave marks. Genuine leather and synthetic leather require different repair methods with significant price differences. My experience is that material can be identified by examining the grain pattern. The location of damage is crucial, as repaired areas in frequently bent sections are prone to re-cracking.


