
Repairing a car jack involves a systematic approach of inspection, cleaning, and part replacement. The core answer is that for most hydraulic floor jacks, the repair is often about replacing the internal seals and hydraulic fluid after a thorough cleaning. If the jack is physically damaged or the main ram is bent, replacement is safer than repair. Always consult the jack's manual for specific parts and safety warnings.
Before starting, ensure the jack is fully lowered to release all hydraulic pressure. Work in a clean, well-lit area and have a container ready for old oil.
Common Issues and Solutions:
| Problem Symptom | Likely Cause | Repair Action |
|---|---|---|
| Jack won't lift or hold weight | Low hydraulic fluid; worn piston seals | Refill with hydraulic jack oil; replace seal kit |
| Jack lifts but won't hold; leaks oil | Damaged or worn O-rings/seals | Complete disassembly and seal replacement |
| Jack is slow to lift | Air in the hydraulic system (cavitation) | "Bleed" the system by opening the release valve and pumping |
| Jack handle is hard to pump | Dirty or contaminated internal mechanisms | Full disassembly, cleaning, and re-lubrication |
| Jack lifts unevenly or is unstable | Bent saddle or frame; damaged wheels | Stop use immediately. The jack is likely unsafe to repair. |
The most frequent repair is a seal replacement. This requires disassembling the hydraulic unit, which is often a single cylinder. Carefully remove the old seals, clean all components with a non-flammable solvent, and install the new seals from a kit matched to your jack's model number. Reassemble and refill with the correct hydraulic jack oil; using automatic transmission fluid or motor oil can damage the seals.
After reassembly, bleed the system. With the release valve open, pump the handle a dozen times. Then, close the valve and test the jack with a light load before attempting to lift a vehicle. If you are unsure about any step, especially assessing frame damage, err on the side of caution and replace the jack. Your safety is more important than the cost of a new tool.

I’ve fixed my old floor jack a couple of times. Nine times out of ten, it just needs new oil. If it’s leaking or not holding, you gotta get a rebuild kit—they’re like fifteen bucks online. Just search for the model number. Take it apart, clean everything up, pop in the new seals, and fill it with proper hydraulic oil. It’s not hard, just a bit messy. If the main post is bent, though, toss it. Not worth the risk.

Safety is the absolute priority. Before any repair, inspect the jack for cracks, significant rust, or a bent lifting arm. If you see any of these, do not attempt a repair. The jack is compromised and must be replaced. For internal issues like leaking, only proceed if you are mechanically confident and have the correct seal kit. Always test the repaired jack with a minimal load before trusting it with a vehicle. A failed jack can cause catastrophic injury.

Honestly, for the average person, repairing a hydraulic jack isn't the most practical choice. A decent new floor jack costs between $100-$200. Weigh that against the time spent diagnosing the problem, finding the right parts, and the frustration of potentially not fixing it correctly. If the jack is a high-end professional model, then a rebuild makes financial sense. But for a standard garage jack, buying new is often the smarter, safer, and faster solution.

Start by identifying the exact problem. Does it not lift at all, or does it lift but slowly sink? The first issue points to fluid or pump problems; the second indicates seal failure. Locate the model number and find a schematic online—this is your roadmap. Gather your tools: wrenches, a clean pan for oil, rags, and the specific repair kit. Methodically disassemble the unit, laying parts out in order. Clean each component thoroughly before installing new seals and reassembling. The key is patience and cleanliness.


