
Use a small piece of kneaded dough and roll it back and forth on the magnet with iron powder to stick and remove the iron powder. Using glass adhesive tape to stick and remove the iron powder from the magnet also works well. You can switch to an electromagnet. If there is residual magnetism after power failure, apply an appropriate amount of reverse excitation to the electromagnet through the control circuit to completely demagnetize it, and the iron filings will naturally fall off.

I usually deal with iron particles on my car by doing it myself—it's cost-effective and reliable. First, I thoroughly wash the car, using a high-pressure water gun to rinse off surface dust. Then, I put on rubber gloves and spray a dedicated iron remover, like branded products such as CarPro Iron X, which works great. Let it sit for a few minutes until the color turns purple, indicating a reaction. After that, rinse it off with water, making sure not to leave the chemical on too long to avoid damaging the paint. The whole process should be done in the shade to prevent quick evaporation and inefficacy under sunlight. Iron particles mostly come from brake pad wear and can corrode the paint and cause rust if left to accumulate, so I address any spots as soon as I notice them to prevent worsening. This method is more economical and hassle-free than going to a detailing shop, and it also allows me to inspect the car’s condition. For prevention, I regularly apply wax to create a protective layer and reduce iron particle adhesion.

As a car owner, I particularly emphasize the safe and efficient removal of iron particles. First, after washing the car, gently rub the paint surface with a clay bar. Choose a specialized lubricant spray to ensure smooth gliding of the clay, and use gentle motions to avoid scratching the paint. Remember to wear gloves and a mask, and work in a well-ventilated area to prevent inhaling dust, which can cause discomfort. Iron particles often come from daily braking and metal particles on the road, which are highly corrosive. If not treated promptly, they can lead to paint peeling. After removing the iron particles, it’s best to apply a layer of protective wax to seal the surface and prevent recurrence. Don’t rush the process—take it step by step to ensure the paint remains undamaged. The money saved on repairs can then be used for more maintenance. Once, while using a clay bar, I found it could also remove other tiny impurities, which was an unexpected bonus.

When removing iron particles, I always consider the environmental impact. I prefer using products with natural ingredients, such as plant-based cleaners, which are non-toxic and biodegradable. A simple method: after washing the car, mix white vinegar and water, spray it on the iron particle areas, wait for 10 minutes, then wipe and rinse. However, control the amount to avoid acid damage to the paint. Iron particle accumulation accelerates oxidation, so I regularly park in the garage to reduce exposure. Eco-friendly methods might be slower, but they reduce chemical residues and are better for the paint's longevity. Prevention is key: I install mud flaps to block brake dust and choose low-dust brake pads to minimize the issue at the source. This approach saves money and is sustainable, allowing me to enjoy driving with peace of mind.


