
Using hydrochloric acid and zinc powder for polishing can remove the coating, but ensure thorough cleaning after application Employ hydrochloric acid and zinc powder for polishing Maintain the original clarity of the glass, then proceed with polishing using cerium oxide polishing powder

Removing car glass coating is actually quite simple. Last time I did it myself, I used a professional stripper like CR-12, which works really well. Just spray it on, let it react for two to three minutes, and then you can easily scrape it off with a plastic scraper. The key is to wear gloves and goggles because the fumes are quite strong. If there are any residues left in the corners, use a fine abrasive sponge with some glass cleaner to remove them. After the process, make sure to wipe the surface thoroughly with alcohol, otherwise the new coating won't adhere properly. This chemical method is suitable for stubborn silicone resin coatings, though it can be a bit time-consuming and labor-intensive.

It's quite interesting to watch mechanics at the repair shop use mechanical methods. They often use 1500-3000 grit water sandpaper with soapy water for gentle sanding, then polish back and forth with a DA polisher and glass restorer. I remember one time when the coating on my car bubbled, the mechanic even used a heat gun to soften it. But doing it yourself is risky - improper polishing can make the glass hazy. They finally check for residue with a film thickness gauge, that's what makes professionals different. This method works particularly well on inorganic coatings, just make sure to find a shop with skilled technicians.

At home, I tried a makeshift solution: first, I used a steam iron to soften the surface film, then scraped off large residues with a credit card while it was still hot. Next, I made a paste with baking soda and used an old toothbrush to slowly scrub the edges and gaps. After finishing, I noticed some fine hairline scratches on the glass, so I applied a thin layer of car wax as a temporary protective measure. This method is suitable for temporary emergencies, but a professional coating will need to be reapplied after some time. During the process, I had to constantly change angles to prevent localized overheating.


