
Prepare all the tools and equipment needed for the entire process of removing a car tire, including a tire wrench and a small hook. Take out the small hook, use it to hook into the hole of the screw cap, and then pull outward to remove the screw cap. Take out the jack, locate the support point of the reinforcement rib under the car chassis, and then use the jack to lift the vehicle. Take out the tire wrench, remove the five loosened screws that secure the tire, and then take off the car tire.

Last time I had a flat tire on the highway, I changed it myself. Remember to first find a safe and level place to park, and engage the electronic parking brake. I found the jack with the Mercedes-Benz logo in the trunk—the manual indicates the four support points on the chassis. I located the position by feeling for the raised triangular mark behind the front wheel. The security bolts were particularly troublesome; I had to use the five-pointed star key from the onboard tools to tighten them properly. After loosening all the bolts, don’t rush to remove the wheel—first, lift the car until the tire is about two fingers’ width off the ground. When I shook the tire and found it stuck, I gave it a couple of kicks near the lower edge of the rim to free it. The trickiest part when installing the new tire was aligning the bolt holes—I had to hold it up and rotate it to find the right angle. Finally, I tightened the bolts in a diagonal pattern three times to ensure everything was secure.

With a decade of experience in car modification, I've learned that the secret to changing tires on a Mercedes lies in the details. It's safer to work when the car is cold, and always wear gloves to protect the rims. When removing the hubcap, pry along the direction of the clips—avoid using brute force. The onboard wrench doesn't provide enough torque, so I always carry a cross wrench. When loosening the bolts counterclockwise, I noticed that German cars are designed with diagonal force distribution. Place the jack on the raised ridge below the door and keep a spare tire nearby as a safety precaution when lifting. If the rim is stuck due to oxidation, a bit of WD-40 does the trick. Before installing new tires, remember to clean the brake dust off the rotors, and tighten the bolts in two stages: pre-tightening and final tightening.

Last week at the 4S shop, I watched a mechanic change a Mercedes tire in just three minutes, and the key was the tools. The electric wrench buzzed while loosening the screws, but the mechanic said a regular L-shaped wrench that comes with the car is sufficient for household vehicles. The crucial point is not to fully remove the screws when loosening them; remove them completely only after jacking up the car. I noticed they were very particular about the jacking position, with dedicated grooves marked in the triangular area of the rear wheel suspension. The old tire should be laid flat when removed, and when installing the new tire, the valve stem should face outward and align properly. What impressed me most was the technique for tightening the screws—using a star pattern in two stages: first by hand, then by stepping on it, and finally calibrating with a torque wrench to 130N·m.


