The safest way to put a car on four jack stands is to work on a flat, solid surface, use the vehicle's designated jacking points, and raise one end of the car at a time, securing it with stands before moving to the opposite end. This method prevents the car from shifting and ensures stability. The most critical rule is to never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack. A jack is for lifting; jack stands are for supporting.
First, gather your equipment: a hydraulic floor jack, four quality jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight, and wheel chocks. Park on a level concrete or asphalt surface, put the car in Park (or first gear for a manual), and engage the parking brake. Place wheel chocks firmly against the tires on the end of the car you are not lifting initially.
Start by lifting one corner. Locate the manufacturer's recommended jack point—often a reinforced section of the frame rail or a specific mark on the pinch weld (the seam underneath the doors). Carefully position the floor jack and lift the car just high enough to place the first jack stand. Adjust the stand's height so it snugly fits under a solid structural point, like a subframe or a dedicated stand point, then slowly lower the jack until the car rests securely on the stand. Repeat this for the other corner on the same axle.
Once the front or rear is supported by two stands, move to the opposite end and repeat the entire process. Before working under the car, perform a stability test by gently rocking the vehicle. It should feel solid, with no movement from the stands.
| Critical Safety Check & Torque Data (for reference) | |
|---|
| Minimum Jack Stand Weight Rating | 3 tons (6,000 lbs) per pair for most sedans/SUVs |
| Parking Brake Holding Force | Varies by vehicle; always engage fully |
| Lug Nut Torque (typical) | 80-100 ft-lbs (prevents wheel rotation) |
| Recommended Surface Slope | Less than 1% grade (essentially perfectly flat) |
| Jack Stand Height Safety Margin | Lift only 1-2 inches higher than needed for the task |
