
The safest way to pass cables through a car is to route them along existing wire harnesses, tuck them under trim panels and weather stripping, and always use a fuse tap for any connections to the vehicle's electrical system. This prevents damage to your car's interior, avoids creating a safety hazard from loose wires, and ensures a professional-looking installation. Whether you're installing a dash cam, a radar detector, or new speakers, the core principle is to make the wiring as invisible as possible while protecting it from pinching or wear.
The most common path is from the fuse box (usually located in the driver's side footwell) up the A-pillar (the vertical post between the windshield and front door) to the top of the windshield. Before you start, disconnect the car's battery to prevent any electrical shorts.
Essential Tools and Materials Having the right tools makes the job much easier and safer.
| Tool/Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Plastic Trim Removal Tools | To pry panels without scratching surfaces. |
| Wire Fish Tape | To guide cables through tight spaces. |
| Cable Zip Ties / Adhesive Clips | To secure wires to existing harnesses. |
| Electrical Tape / Tesa Tape | To bundle wires and prevent rattles. |
| Add-a-Fuse (Fuse Tap) | To safely draw power from the fuse box. |
| Multimeter | To identify a constant or switched power source. |
Start by carefully prying off the A-pillar trim. Crucially, route the cable behind the airbag, which is typically mounted on the A-pillar. Never run a cable in front of or over an airbag, as it can become a dangerous projectile during deployment. Tuck the wire into the headliner (the fabric on the ceiling), then guide it down the side of the windshield to the fuse box. Use zip ties to secure your new cable to the car's factory wire harness.
For power, use a fuse tap. Use your multimeter to find a fuse slot that is "switched" or "ignition-on" power, meaning it only has electricity when the car is on. This prevents your device from draining the battery. Ground the wire by connecting it to an unpainted metal bolt screwed into the car's chassis. Once everything is connected and secured, carefully reinstall all trim panels and reconnect the battery to test your installation.

Just take your time and be gentle with the plastic trim. I’ve done this for my dash cam. The trick is to tuck the thin cable into the gap between the headliner and the windshield—you can usually just push it in with your fingers. Run it down the A-pillar, but pop that trim clip off first to make sure the wire goes behind the airbag. Then, snake it down to the fuse box by the door sill. A fuse tap is like ten bucks and makes it totally safe. It feels way better than having a cord dangling from your mirror.

My main advice is safety first, especially concerning airbags. Before you touch anything, look up a vehicle-specific installation video for your car model. The A-pillar is a critical area. You must route the cable along the path that avoids interfering with the side-curtain airbag deployment. Using the correct plastic tools is non-negotiable to avoid broken clips and rattles. This isn't a race; a careful, methodical approach will give you a clean, safe, and permanent installation you can be proud of.

For a pro-looking job, you need the right gear. Don’t use metal tools; get a set of nylon pry tools. The real secret weapon is Tesa tape—it’s the cloth tape car manufacturers use. It doesn’t leave a sticky residue and holds wires securely without rattling. Plan your entire route before you push any wire. Start at the device, run the slack to the fuse box, and then cut the wire to length. A fuse tap is the only correct way to connect to the car's electrical system; never just splice into random wires.


