
To measure cylinder pressure, follow these steps: 1. Use compressed air to clean the dirt around the spark plugs, then remove all spark plugs. For gasoline engines, also disconnect the ignition system's secondary high-voltage wires and securely ground them to prevent electric shock or fire. 2. Insert the conical rubber tip of the dedicated cylinder pressure gauge into the spark plug hole of the cylinder being measured, ensuring it is properly aligned and tightly sealed. 3. Fully open the throttle (and the choke if equipped), then use the starter to rotate the crankshaft for 3 to 5 seconds (at least 4 compression strokes). Stop rotating once the pressure gauge needle indicates and maintains the maximum pressure reading. 4. Remove the pressure gauge, record the reading, and press the one-way valve to reset the gauge to zero. Repeat this process for each cylinder, measuring each cylinder at least twice. Calculate the arithmetic mean of the measurements for each cylinder and compare the results with standard values to analyze and assess the cylinder's working condition.

My last experience measuring cylinder pressure myself left a deep impression. You need to prepare a dedicated cylinder pressure gauge, wait for the engine to completely cool down, and remove all spark plugs to avoid damaging components. Before testing, disconnect the ignition coil plug or remove the fuel injector fuse to prevent fuel injection during cranking. Locate the correct spark plug hole and connect the pressure gauge head, ensuring it's tightly screwed to prevent air leaks. Have an assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal to keep the throttle wide open. Then crank the starter for about 5 seconds until the pressure gauge needle stabilizes at the maximum reading. I've tested many vehicles - normal cylinder pressure typically ranges between 980kPa to 1270kPa, with adjacent cylinders showing no more than 10% difference. If you encounter significantly low readings, add a few drops of oil into the cylinder and retest. If the reading improves, it indicates piston ring issues; no change suggests valve sealing problems. Remember to test every cylinder - only by comparing data can you identify the true fault.

Measuring cylinder pressure may seem simple, but it's crucial to follow the procedures. The test must be performed on a cold engine - removing spark plugs on a hot engine risks burns. Always disconnect the ignition system first to prevent fuel injection during cranking, which could damage the catalytic converter. When I oversee repairs, I insist technicians screw the pressure gauge adapter all the way in - carbon buildup in the spark plug threads can compromise the seal. During the few seconds of cranking, keeping the throttle wide open is critical - insufficient air intake will skew results. When reading measurements, pay equal attention to both absolute values and pressure variations between cylinders. If cylinder #7 shows significantly lower pressure, it typically indicates either burnt valves or misaligned piston rings. This test is particularly valuable for diagnosing engine misfires or oil consumption issues, far more effective than random parts replacement.

To check cylinder pressure yourself, you'll need: a threaded cylinder pressure gauge, spark plug socket, and protective gloves. Disconnecting the battery negative terminal is safer, then remove the ignition coil wiring. After removing all spark plugs, screw the pressure gauge into the first cylinder's spark plug hole. Turn the key to the start position to crank the engine for about 5 seconds, recording the highest pressure reading. Repeat this process for all cylinders. Readings below 690kPa definitely indicate problems, and for a four-cylinder engine, the maximum pressure difference between cylinders shouldn't exceed 98kPa. When detecting an abnormal cylinder, perform a wet test: add 10ml of engine oil into the cylinder and retest. If pressure increases, it indicates piston ring leakage; if readings remain unchanged, it suggests valve issues.

Remember the scene of measuring cylinder pressure on the old Jetta not long ago. With the engine warmed up, the pressure in each cylinder was only around 820 kPa. After disassembly, it was found that carbon buildup on the valves caused them not to close tightly. The key thing to observe is the speed at which the pressure gauge needle rises when the starter motor is running. A healthy cylinder should reach high pressure within two seconds. Slow pressure buildup may indicate worn valve guides. After measuring, don't rush to install the spark plugs; take the opportunity to check the carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. If the pressure is generally low across all cylinders, consider whether the timing chain has skipped a tooth, causing a change in the compression ratio. This test not only helps determine single-cylinder faults but also reflects the overall mechanical condition of the engine, which is crucial for judging whether an overhaul is needed.


