
Lifting a car with a jack requires careful attention to safety. The correct process involves finding a solid, level surface like a concrete driveway, locating the vehicle's designated jack points (noted in your owner's manual), and using a jack stand to support the vehicle before working underneath it. The car's built-in emergency jack is only for changing tires; for any repair work, a sturdy floor jack and jack stands are essential.
First, consult your owner's manual to identify the exact jack points. These are reinforced sections of the frame or pinch welds designed to handle the weight. Never jack up the car on a random part of the chassis, oil pan, or axle, as this can cause severe damage. Once you've found the suitable location, ensure the parking brake is firmly engaged and the transmission is in "Park" (for automatics) or first gear (for manuals). Chock the wheels opposite the end you're lifting with sturdy blocks or bricks to prevent the car from rolling.
Position the jack under the correct point and begin lifting smoothly. Once the tire is just off the ground, stop. This is the most critical safety step: slide a jack stand under a secure part of the vehicle's frame, close to the jack point. Adjust the stand to the correct height so it firmly supports the car. Slowly lower the jack until the vehicle's weight is entirely on the stand. Before getting underneath, give the car a solid shake to test the stability of the stand. The jack is now your backup; the jack stand is your primary safety device.

Find a flat, solid spot like your driveway. Check the manual for the specific jack points—don't just guess. Crank the jack until the tire is off the ground, but don't go any higher than you need. The golden rule: never, ever get under a car supported only by a jack. Always slide a jack stand under a solid part of the frame right after you lift it. The jack can fail; the stand is what keeps you safe.

The biggest mistake is skipping the parking brake and wheel chocks. I always set the brake, put the car in Park, and chock the wheels opposite the ones I'm lifting. It’s a simple habit that prevents the car from rolling off the jack. Then I find the proper metal jack point, never the plastic trim or anything that looks flimsy. Once it's up, the jack stand goes on immediately. A little extra time for setup is worth it for peace of mind.

Having the right gear makes all the difference. The scissor jack that comes with the car is really only for emergency tire changes. For real work, invest in a good hydraulic floor jack—it's faster and more stable. Pair it with a set of heavy-duty jack stands. When you lift, do it slowly and stop as soon as the wheel clears. Always double-check that the stand is locked in place before you even think about crawling under there. Good tools build confidence.

I learned this the hard way years ago. I had a car up on a jack, and it shifted with a loud groan. I got out fast, and nothing happened, but it scared me straight. Now, I'm meticulous. I treat the jack as just the lifting tool. Its job is to get the car high enough for the jack stands to take over. Those stands are your real safety net. I give the car a good push with my hip after it's on the stands. If it doesn't move, I know I'm good to go. It’s all about building a safe system.


