How to Identify Whether a Replacement Hood is OEM?
3 Answers
Check the color and thickness of the silicone sleeve, and smell for any pungent odor. Look for a serial number engraved at the opening (where it connects to the right handle). New cars will have a VIN; carefully verify if the VIN matches.
When identifying an original hood during replacement, I often start with the material and weight: first, I weigh the hood—original parts usually use lightweight aluminum or specific steel, feeling evenly balanced and not hollow. Then, I inspect the seams and edges for finishing details: original parts have smooth craftsmanship with no burrs, effective internal rust-proof coatings, and consistent color without signs of repair. If the weight doesn’t match or the edges are rough, it might be an aftermarket part. Don’t forget that material affects safety—non-original parts may be fragile, increasing collision risks. Having a repair shop weigh and compare can save a lot of hassle. I’ve tried this method several times, and it helps maintain the car’s resale value. In short, personally checking the material can help avoid many pitfalls.
As a car owner, my key inspection points when replacing the hood are paint matching and installation fit: OEM parts have glossy paint without fading or spots, close with minimal and even gaps, and lock securely without squeaking. Aftermarket parts often have dull or bubbling paint, uneven edge gaps, and loosen when driving over bumps. Compare with the original color code - repair shops have colorimeters for quick matching. I also check the sealing strip condition: OEM rubber strips have ideal firmness to prevent water leakage into the engine bay. Non-OEM parts are cheaper but often cause post-repair issues. Remember, proper fit affects long-term stability - examine details carefully before proceeding.
