How to Identify Repainted Car Surfaces?
2 Answers
The original factory paint thickness typically ranges between 100~120 microns and is very uniform. If measurements exceed this range or show significant unevenness, it indicates repainted surfaces. Uniform light reflection across the entire vehicle body suggests either no repainting work has been done or the whole car has been repainted. Open the trunk lid and engine hood to examine the transition areas between visible and non-visible surfaces. Obvious layering or noticeable differences in paint aging indicate repainted sections.
Having driven for many years, I've learned that touch-up paint zoning mainly depends on the severity and location of the damage. For minor scratches like small surface marks, using polishing or a touch-up pen for DIY repairs saves both money and time. Moderate scratches, such as those exposing the primer or causing dents, require cleaning and drying first, followed by fine sandpaper sanding, applying primer, then spraying color paint in small zoned areas to avoid color mismatch issues. Severe damage like rust or large peeling areas necessitates full panel repainting, such as doors or bumpers, with zoned treatment to ensure uniform restoration. Overall, zoned repairs save material costs and extend paint lifespan. I recommend first assessing damage depth—DIY for shallow damage, professional shops for deep damage to prevent secondary harm. Regular parking away from sharp objects and periodic paint maintenance reduce touch-up needs, offering cost-effective peace of mind without compromising aesthetics.
