How to Identify Automotive Engine Oil?

[MacAriana]

For automotive engine oil, often referred to as the "lifeblood" of a car, using high-quality oil is crucial for properly maintaining the engine. Here are methods to distinguish genuine from counterfeit engine oil: First, examine the oil container. Counterfeit oil containers often have unclear or irregular fonts, and the seams around the cap are rough. Genuine oil containers feature clear fonts and fine craftsmanship with no impurities. However, just inspecting the container isn't foolproof, as some unscrupulous sellers reuse authentic oil bottles to fill with fake oil. At room temperature, genuine engine oil typically has a darker color compared to counterfeit oil. Another crucial method is smell: genuine oil has almost no strong odor, emitting only a faint, pleasant fragrance, while counterfeit oil has a noticeably pungent gasoline-like smell. After freezing for 48 hours, genuine oil maintains good low-temperature fluidity with no significant changes in transparency or color. In contrast, counterfeit oil becomes slightly thicker and appears cloudy. Using counterfeit engine oil can lead to the following issues: reduced lubrication causing increased wear; engine overheating and shortened lifespan with rapid coolant temperature rise; difficulty in cleaning heavy engine sludge; increased emissions and accelerated oil consumption (severe oil burning); and accelerated metal oxidation leading to corrosion.

[LeAlice]

I usually check the engine oil level myself. First, park the car on level ground, turn off the engine, and wait for ten minutes to allow the oil to drain back. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it, then pull it out again to check the oil mark position—it should be between the upper and lower marks. If the oil level is low, add the same type of oil, but never mix different brands. The oil color is also important—fresh oil is light brown and transparent. If it turns as black as cola or contains metal particles, it's long overdue for a change. In winter, I opt for 0W-grade oil for better low-temperature fluidity, while 5W or 10W is more suitable for summer. I check it every 5,000 kilometers, and the engine runs smoother as a result.

[VanBethany]

As a seasoned driver with fifteen years of experience, I've come up with a practical method. Checking the oil dipstick before a cold start in the morning is the most accurate. Wipe the oil stain off with a tissue and hold it up to the light: a uniform and translucent oil film is ideal. If the oil doesn't cling to the dipstick or appears milky white, there's an 80% chance coolant has mixed in. A burnt smell indicates overheating, while a gasoline odor might point to piston ring issues. Rub the oil between your fingers—it should feel viscous yet smooth. If it's too thin or has particles, be cautious. Different car models have specific oil requirements. My American car uses 5W-30, while my neighbor's German car needs 40 viscosity. Regular oil changes are crucial—I stick to every 8,000 kilometers.

[CalvinFitz]

I remember the mechanic teaching me during the first maintenance that checking the oil grade is most important. Codes like SAE 5W-30 on the barrel: the smaller the number before W, the better the cold resistance, and the 30 after represents high-temperature viscosity. Full synthetic oil barrels are labeled 'Synthetic', while mineral oil is marked 'Mineral'. Nowadays, new cars mostly use low-viscosity 0W-20 oil, while older cars are better suited for high-viscosity 10W-40. Don't exceed the mileage specified in the manual when changing oil, as mixing engine oil can damage the engine. Always check the anti-counterfeit code when buying oil, as fake products can severely harm the car.