how to haul a car on a trailer

[Clyde]

Hauling a car on a trailer safely requires following a precise sequence of steps focused on vehicle securement and weight distribution. The core process involves inspecting your equipment, correctly positioning and securing the car to the trailer, and performing a final safety check before driving. The most critical step is ensuring the vehicle is properly strapped down at all four corners to prevent shifting during transit.

Before you begin, confirm your tow vehicle's capacity (its maximum tow rating and Gross Combined Weight Rating or GCWR) can handle the combined weight of the trailer and the car you're hauling. An open or enclosed car trailer can weigh between 1,500 to 2,500 pounds empty, and the car's weight must be added to that.

Equipment & Specification	Typical Range / Type	Importance
Tow Vehicle Tow Rating	5,000 - 12,000+ lbs	Must exceed total trailer + car weight
Trailer Weight (Tare Weight)	1,500 - 2,500 lbs	Base weight to be added to load
Car Weight (Curb Weight)	2,500 - 4,500 lbs	The primary load weight
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)	Varies by trailer	Max total weight the trailer can carry
D-Ring Rated Capacity	5,000 - 10,000 lbs each	Critical for securement strength
Ratchet Strap Working Load Limit	3,333 lbs (10,000 lb break)	Standard for car hauling
Wheel Chocks	Rubber or Polyurethane	Prevents rolling during strapping

Step-by-Step Hauling Process:

1. Pre-Trip Inspection: Check trailer tire pressure, brake lights, turn signals, and ensure the trailer jack and coupler are in good working order. Grease the ball hitch.
2. Loading the Car: Use the trailer's ramp to drive the car onto the deck. Center the car side-to-side and position it so that approximately 60% of the total weight is forward of the trailer's axles. This provides proper tongue weight, which is essential for stable towing. An improperly balanced trailer can sway dangerously.
3. Securing the Vehicle: Place the transmission in Park (or first gear for a manual), engage the parking brake, and chock the wheels. Use four ratchet straps, each with a minimum 3,333-pound Working Load Limit. Attach the straps to the vehicle's frame or dedicated tow points—never to suspension components or body panels. Criss-cross the straps from the front of the car to the rear of the trailer and from the rear of the car to the front of the trailer to limit forward/backward movement.
4. Final Check: Double-check that all straps are tight and secure. Ensure safety chains are properly crossed under the tongue. Give the straps a final tug after driving a short distance, as they can loosen initially.

[Paul]

I’ve hauled my project car a few times. The biggest thing is getting the balance right. You don’t want the trailer tail-heavy or it’ll fishtail. Drive the car on so the weight is a bit forward on the trailer. Then, strap it down tight to the frame, not the control arms. I always give everything a good shake before I hit the road and check the straps again after the first mile. It’s all about taking your time and not rushing the setup.

[BentleyLynn]

Safety is non-negotiable. Before anything, verify your tow vehicle and trailer ratings exceed the car's weight. The securement is what matters most. Use four high-quality ratchet straps, each attached to substantial chassis points. The criss-cross pattern from the vehicle's corners to the trailer D-rings is crucial for controlling movement. A final, thorough walk-around to inspect all connections, lights, and tire clearance is a must. Never assume it's secure; always verify.

[AnaFitz]

The main mistake people make is not checking their equipment's limits. Look up your truck's max towing capacity and your trailer's GVWR. The cost of a mistake is high. Investing in four new, correctly rated straps is cheaper than a body repair bill. Position the car for a 60/40 front-to-rear weight bias on the trailer for stability. This isn't a place to cut corners; using the right gear the right way is the only way to do it.