
The most common reason a car lighter socket (also called a 12V auxiliary power outlet) stops working is a blown fuse. Before you assume the worst, checking and replacing the fuse is a straightforward fix you can do yourself in about 10 minutes. You'll need your car's owner's manual to locate the fuse box and the correct fuse, and a fuse puller or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Start by locating your vehicle's interior fuse panel. It's often found under the dashboard on the driver's side, in the glove compartment, or on the side of the dashboard when the driver's door is open. Consult your owner's manual for the exact location and the diagram that identifies each fuse. Look for the fuse labeled "CIG" (cigarette lighter), "OUTLET," or "PWR." Once you've found it, use the fuse puller to gently remove it. Inspect the fuse. A blown fuse will have a broken metal strip inside or a discolored, cloudy appearance in the glass or plastic window. If it's blown, replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage (e.g., 15A or 20A). Using a higher-amp fuse can cause damage to the wiring. After replacing the fuse, test the socket with a device you know works. If it functions, you're done. If the new fuse blows immediately, you likely have a deeper issue like a short circuit in the socket itself or the wiring, and it's best to consult a professional mechanic. | Common Fuse Amperage for Lighter Sockets | Symptoms of a Blown Fuse | Tools Needed for DIY Fix | | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 10 Amps | No power to any device plugged in. | Car owner's manual | | 15 Amps (Most Common) | Dashboard accessory warning light may illuminate. | Fuse puller or needle-nose pliers | | 20 Amps | Fuse may appear melted or have a broken metal strip. | Replacement fuse (correct amperage) | | 25 Amps | A faint burning smell from the outlet area (rare). | Flashlight (for visibility) | | 30 Amps | Multiple outlets on the same circuit may be dead. | Multimeter (for advanced testing) |

Pop open your fuse box—it’s probably near your knees on the driver's side. Your car's manual has a map. Find the fuse for the lighter; it’ll say "CIG" or something similar. Pull it out. If the little metal strip inside is broken, that’s your problem. Swap it for a new one with the same number on top. Don’t guess the amperage; match it exactly. Plug your phone charger in. If it works, you just saved a trip to the shop.

From my experience, it's almost always the fuse. It's a simple safety feature. First, unplug everything from the socket. Grab a fuse tester or a multimeter if you have one to check for power. If not, the visual inspection is your best bet. A blown fuse is an easy and cheap fix. The real key is figuring out why it blew. Did you plug in a high-draw device like a tire inflator? That's common. If it blows again after replacement, stop—you’ve got a wiring short that needs a pro.

Safety first. Make sure the car is completely turned off before you touch any fuses. I’m cautious, so I even disconnect the negative battery cable for extra safety. The owner’s manual is your best friend here; it tells you exactly which fuse to check. If you're not comfortable, there's no shame in taking it to a mechanic. A quick fuse replacement is an inexpensive job for them. It's better than risking damage to your car's electrical system by poking around if you're unsure.

Yeah, mine went out last month. I thought the socket itself was busted. Turns out, it was just a ten-cent fuse. Took me longer to find the darn fuse box than to actually fix it. Check your glove box; some cars even include a few spare fuses. Just match the color and number. If the new one blows right away, something you're plugging in is probably faulty or drawing too much power. Try a different device before you assume the worst. Been there, done that.


