
Fixing a keyed car depends entirely on the scratch's depth. For light, surface-level scratches that you can't catch with a fingernail, a DIY repair with a polishing compound and touch-up paint is often successful. Deep scratches that catch on your nail and expose bare metal require professional repainting to prevent rust and ensure a seamless finish. The most critical step for any scratch is a thorough cleaning to assess the true damage.
The first category is clear coat scratches. These are superficial and only affect the top, protective layer of your paint. You can identify these by running your fingernail over the scratch; if it doesn't catch, it's likely just in the clear coat. These can usually be fixed at home with a scratch removal compound and a lot of elbow grease, effectively polishing the area to level the surface.
If the scratch has penetrated through the clear coat into the colored base coat, it's more serious. You'll need a touch-up paint kit matched to your car's specific color code (found on a placard in the driver's door jamb or glovebox). This involves carefully applying the paint in thin layers, allowing it to dry, and then leveling it with a clear coat applicator. It requires patience for a decent result.
Deep scratches that expose the grayish primer or bare metal are a job for a professional auto body shop. These require sanding, priming, painting, and clear coating to restore the panel properly and protect it from corrosion. Attempting a DIY fix on this level often results in a very noticeable, mismatched repair.
| Scratch Depth | DIY Feasibility | Estimated DIY Cost | Estimated Pro Cost | Key Action |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Clear Coat Only | High | $20 - $50 | $150 - $400 | Polish/Compound |
| Through Base Coat | Medium | $50 - $120 | $400 - $1,000 | Touch-Up Paint Kit |
| To Primer/Metal | Low | - | $500 - $1,500+ | Professional Repaint |
| Deep Scratch on Door Panel | Low | - | $600 - $900 | Panel Blending |
| Scratch on Plastic Bumper | Medium | $40 - $100 | $300 - $800 | Sand, Prime, Paint |
The best approach is to start with the least aggressive method. Always wash and dry the area first. Try a polishing compound on a microfiber cloth. If that doesn't work, then move to a touch-up pen. If the scratch is still visible and deep, seeking a few quotes from reputable body shops is the wisest long-term investment for your car's value and appearance.

Wash the spot first to see what you're really dealing with. If you can't feel the scratch with your fingernail, grab some scratch remover from the auto parts store. Rub it in really well with a clean cloth—it's basically a fine polish that smooths the clear coat back out. For anything deeper than that, a touch-up paint pen is your next best bet. Just go slow and build up thin layers. If it looks bad after that, it's time to call a pro.

It feels awful to see that deliberate scratch. I focused on stopping rust first. I bought a small bottle of clear nail polish as a temporary sealant for the deepest part of the scratch where the metal was exposed. It’s not a fix, but it keeps moisture out until I could get a proper touch-up paint pen matched to my car’s color. It stopped me from worrying about the damage getting worse while I figured out the next step. The important thing is to protect the metal.

My buddy at the auto shop said the secret is in the prep. Even for a small touch-up, you have to sand the area lightly with very fine-grit sandpaper (like 2000-grit) to feather the edges of the scratch. This stops the touch-up paint from sitting in a visible blob. Then you use a pre-paint cleaner to make sure no wax or grease is left behind. Applying the paint in several microscopic layers, letting each dry completely, is what makes it look almost invisible instead of a globby mess.


