
Oxygen sensor fault diagnosis methods are as follows: 1. Heater resistance wire burnout: For heated oxygen sensors, if the heater resistance wire is burned out, it becomes difficult for the sensor to reach normal operating temperature and thus fails to function. 2. Poor combustion: Due to poor engine combustion, carbon deposits form on the oxygen sensor surface, or oil, dirt, and other deposits enter the oxygen sensor interior, blocking external air from entering the sensor. This causes the oxygen sensor's output signal to be inaccurate, preventing the ECU from promptly adjusting the air-fuel ratio. 3. Oxygen sensor ceramic breakage: The ceramic in oxygen sensors is hard and brittle. Striking it with a hard object or washing it with strong airflow may cause it to break and fail. Therefore, handle with extreme care and replace immediately if issues are detected.

When I suspect an oxygen sensor issue, I usually start by observing driving symptoms. For example, a sudden increase in fuel consumption, sluggish acceleration, or a persistent check engine light would raise suspicions. Next, I plug in a portable OBD-II scanner to the diagnostic port to read trouble codes - common P0130 series codes can directly indicate oxygen sensor problems. Without a scanner, I inspect the sensor wiring harness for damage or oil contamination, as engine oil leaks or coolant intrusion may foul the sensor. Additionally, observing exhaust emissions helps - strong gasoline odor or black smoke indicates improper air-fuel mixture regulation. For safety, I recommend not ignoring such faults as they may damage the catalytic converter. It's more reliable to visit a repair shop early for professional diagnostic testing, which saves fuel and reduces pollution risks.

In vehicle maintenance, the steps I take to diagnose an oxygen sensor fault are quite straightforward. First, I check the OBD system for fault codes; if codes like P0134 appear, I've located the issue. Then, I use a multimeter to test the signal voltage: under normal conditions, it should fluctuate steadily between 0.1-0.9V at idle. If the voltage is flat or doesn't fluctuate, the sensor might be faulty. Next, I physically inspect the wiring harness for any breaks or corrosion, especially near the exhaust pipe where heat damage is common. Additionally, I assess changes in engine performance, such as rough idling or excessive exhaust emissions, which could indicate oxygen sensor problems. If I can't handle it myself, I immediately head to a professional repair shop to prevent minor issues from escalating. Moreover, cleaning the sensor ports during routine maintenance can prevent misdiagnosis due to dust buildup.

If the oxygen sensor fails, the first thing I notice is whether the exhaust emissions are abnormal. For example, darker exhaust color or unusual odors, which are usually caused by an imbalanced air-fuel mixture. For quick diagnosis, I use a simple code reader to check OBD trouble codes; if relevant codes appear, the issue is basically confirmed. It's good practice to monitor dashboard warning lights and respond promptly while driving. In case of a sensor failure, fuel consumption can increase significantly, which is not environmentally friendly. It's advisable for beginners not to panic—just have a technician test it with professional equipment. In fact, simple self-checks can also identify problems, such as checking if the sensor connector is loose, but for safety's sake, don't delay.


