
Methods to determine cylinder scoring after engine overheating are as follows: 1. Under normal circumstances, the vehicle's power significantly decreases; abnormal water temperature, where the engine shows high temperature or even boils after running for a short while; increased exhaust gas, with blue smoke appearing from the rear exhaust. 2. The engine produces abnormal noises during operation, sounding dull and rough; unstable idle speed, requiring more fuel to maintain the vehicle's idle operation. 3. The vehicle experiences misfiring or cylinder cut-off after prolonged idling or driving for a short time. 4. When encountering cylinder scoring while driving, gradually reduce speed, avoid pressing the accelerator sharply, and maintain steady driving. Then find a suitable parking spot to stop the vehicle.

Last time I encountered a classic case of cylinder scoring during car repair. After the engine overheated and immediately stalled, I first checked the dipstick once it cooled down – the oil from a scored engine looks like gold powder sprinkled in milk tea, full of metal shavings. At idle, the engine shakes like it's doing tap dance, and the exhaust pipe keeps puffing out blue smoke. The most accurate diagnosis was removing spark plugs to test cylinder compression: one of the four cylinders dropped below 5 kg (normal should be 10 kg). Using a borescope inserted through the spark plug hole revealed several deep grooves scratched into the cylinder wall, with the piston sides all scraped up. This kind of damage requires an overhaul – simply changing the oil won't fix it.

My 15 years of engine repair experience summarized: Don't rush to start the engine after overheating! After the engine cools down, pull out the dipstick. If the oil turns silvery gray with shiny flakes, there's a 90% chance of cylinder scoring. Listen for sounds during startup - a scored engine will make a 'clattering' scraping noise, like scraping a metal spoon on a pot bottom. During sudden acceleration, you'll clearly feel intermittent power loss, with exhaust smelling like burnt oil. You can do a simple test yourself: remove the spark plugs, pour in some oil, then check cylinder pressure. If it's higher than before, it basically confirms cylinder scoring. The sooner you repair this, the more money you'll save. Continuing to run it will wear out the crankshaft.

Auto repair master teaches you three tricks: First, check the engine oil—metal shavings settle at the oil pan like iron filings. Second, listen during cold starts—a short 'screeching' noise may occur when cylinder scoring happens. The third trick is the most accurate—remove the fuel injector and connect a cylinder pressure gauge. If any cylinder's pressure is 30% lower than others, be alert. Last week, a heat-damaged pickup showed cylinder pressures of 7/8/7/4—disassembly revealed the fourth piston rings were seized. The most obvious sign of cylinder scoring is power loss—even pressing the accelerator on flat roads won't increase speed.

As an auto repair enthusiast, I've studied cylinder scoring principles. High temperatures cause piston rings to expand and seize, forcibly scraping scratches into the cylinder walls. The key diagnostic evidence lies in the traces: metal debris will clog the oil filter screen, and you can see shiny aluminum particles when removing the filter element. Be alert if blue smoke persists for over ten seconds during cold starts. Once, a friend's car underwent major repairs - upon disassembly, we found cylinder wall scratches deep enough to catch a fingernail, with the piston skirt worn into a jagged pattern - this is classic dry friction cylinder scoring. Early detection only requires piston ring replacement, but delayed discovery means the entire cylinder block needs boring.


