
Electronic throttle with six wires being faulty can lead to: unstable engine idle, persistently high idle speed not dropping, difficulty in engine starting, especially hard cold starts. Insufficient engine power, poor acceleration performance, unstable operation. Black smoke from the car's exhaust pipe, increased fuel consumption. The throttle is a controllable valve that regulates air intake into the engine, with two types: traditional cable-operated and electronic throttle. Below are some details about a faulty throttle: 1. Effects: unstable engine idle, persistently high idle speed not dropping, difficulty in engine starting, especially hard cold starts. Insufficient engine power, poor acceleration performance, unstable operation. Black smoke from the car's exhaust pipe, increased fuel consumption. The throttle is a controllable valve that regulates air intake into the engine, with two types: traditional cable-operated and electronic throttle. 2. Throttle principle: After entering the intake pipe, air mixes with gasoline to form a combustible mixture, which then burns to do work. The throttle connects to the air filter at the top and the engine block at the bottom, known as the throat of the car engine. Whether the car accelerates flexibly is closely related to the cleanliness of the throttle.

Checking the six-wire electronic throttle is actually quite simple, I tried it myself last time. First, unplug the connector and use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the two motor wires—normally around 5 ohms. If the resistance is unusually high or there's no response, the motor is likely burnt. Next, check the four sensor wires. Plug in the connector without starting the car, turn the ignition on, and measure the power supply wire—it should have 5V. Gradually press the throttle and observe if the signal wire voltage smoothly increases from around 0.5V to about 4.5V. If it gets stuck, the sensor is faulty. Finally, test all wires for continuity. Use the multimeter to check each wire for breaks, and also ensure there's no short circuit between the wires and the chassis. If you can’t figure it out, remember to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery—safety first.

When checking a six-wire electronic throttle during car repair, I usually follow a three-step approach. Measuring the motor winding should yield 2-6 ohms for normal operation - readings in the tens of ohms or infinity indicate failure. For the sensor side, power must be applied: both power supply wires should show approximately 5V reference voltage, while the ground wire must read 0V. The critical test is observing the dynamic response of the signal wire - the signal voltage should change smoothly during repeated throttle opening/closing cycles. Use the continuity buzzer function to check wiring, but never cut wires directly to test for shorts as this may damage the ECU. An oscilloscope makes the job easier - both position sensor waveforms should appear symmetrical and smooth; sudden jumps indicate sensor wear. Finally, remember that connector pins are prone to oxidation and rust, which also affects electrical contact.

To diagnose the electronic throttle circuit, measure the motor winding resistance with an ohmmeter; a normal reading is around 5 ohms. For the four sensor wires, they are paired in two groups: the power supply should be 5V, and the ground should be 0V as the baseline. Focus on checking the signal output: the throttle closed position signal should be around 0.5V, and the fully open position signal should be approximately 4.5V, with a linear change during rotation. If a multimeter isn't sufficient, an oscilloscope can provide more accurate waveform readings; a complete sweep should show a smooth curve. Use the diode test mode to check for continuity in the wiring, ensuring both ends of the connector match. I usually also inspect the wiring harness for any abrasions, especially at bends. Older vehicles are prone to corroded pins, and poor contact is the most troublesome issue.


