
Methods to determine the quality of a battery: 1. Check for leaks: The battery contains corrosive chemical liquids that must not leak. A qualified battery ensures that no battery fluid will leak out no matter how much the vehicle shakes or even overturns. 2. Cold resistance: A standard battery can still maintain a voltage above 7.2V required by the vehicle in low temperatures, and its charging capacity does not decline with temperature drops. Inferior batteries struggle to maintain a voltage above 7.2V in cold conditions and have poor charging capacity. 3. Shock resistance: Inside the battery, there is a metal plate completely immersed in liquid. A chemical reaction between the two is necessary for generating and storing electricity. In genuine original batteries, the power-generating materials remain firmly attached to the plate no matter how much the vehicle shakes. In counterfeit or substandard batteries, material detachment is inevitable.

I usually start by checking the physical condition of the battery to ensure it's intact, looking for any bulging, cracks, or signs of leakage. If there's white or green corrosion on the terminals, it's a sign of poor contact and needs to be cleaned promptly. Then, I use simple tools for testing: measure the voltage with a multimeter—a fully charged battery should read close to 12.6 volts. If it's below 12.4 volts, the battery is nearing its end. When starting the engine, pay attention to the voltage drop—a good battery won't drop below 10 volts. A drop below 9 volts indicates a fault. I also observe the starting response: if the engine struggles or takes longer to start when turning the key, it's likely due to an aging battery. If the battery is over three years old, it's advisable to check it annually to avoid being stranded. Don't forget environmental factors—cold weather can cause a sudden drop in power, so charging in advance can prevent mishaps. Regular maintenance like cleaning the terminals and maintaining charge-discharge balance can also extend the battery's life by a few weeks.

As a veteran car owner, I believe judging a battery's condition can be done intuitively. First is the starting experience: if the car groans for a long time without igniting when turning the key, or the dashboard battery warning light comes on, then the battery is failing. Second, manually inspect the battery surface: check for bulging or liquid leakage; see if the terminal connections are corroded, and try cleaning them with a damp cloth. I also listen for sounds: if there's a hissing noise at startup, the battery might be leaking. Another quick test is to leave the car idle for a few hours and then try starting it directly; if it starts sluggishly, seek professional help. Battery lifespan is generally between three to five years, so be vigilant beyond this period. I regularly charge the battery, especially before long trips—this simple and effective method prevents roadside emergencies.

I prefer using DIY methods to test the battery, which are simple and easy to operate. Use a multimeter to measure the static voltage: a fully charged battery should read around 12.6 volts; if it's below 12 volts, recharge and recheck. If the voltage drops more than 2 volts during startup (e.g., falls to 9 volts), it indicates an internal issue. Another trick is the load test: turn on the headlights and AC while starting the engine. If the lights dim or the engine struggles to start, it confirms a problem. I also pay attention to the dashboard: never ignore the battery warning light. If the electrolyte level is too low, top it up with distilled water, but avoid unscrewing the caps carelessly to prevent hand corrosion. Clean dirty battery terminals with baking soda solution, and avoid causing sparks that could lead to a short circuit.


