
Methods for detecting cooling system failures in car engines include: 1. Check if the shutters are closed or have insufficient opening; 2. Inspect the tightness of the fan belt; 3. Verify the normal operation of the fan clutch and the correct direction of the fan blades; 4. Examine the working efficiency of the water pump. The causes of cooling system failures in car engines are: 1. Shutters being closed or having insufficient opening; 2. Slippage of the radiator fan belt or damage to the fan blades; 3. Poor performance of the temperature control switch for the electronically controlled fan; 4. Low rotational speed of the axial flow blower in the cooling system, obstructed air ducts, or poor air diversion.

When my car's temperature gauge suddenly spikes, I know there might be a cooling system issue. First, I quickly pull over, pop the hood, and check the coolant reservoir's level. If it's too low, there might be a leak, so I carefully inspect along the hoses to see if there's any dripping or wet spots at the connections. I also take a quick look at the radiator, feeling its surface to see if it's excessively hot, which could indicate poor airflow. The fan is a common trouble spot—after starting the car and letting the temperature rise, I listen for its humming sound; if it doesn't spin, I check the fuse or relay. A simple test for the thermostat: after the engine warms up, I feel the upper and lower radiator hoses—if there's a big temperature difference, it might be stuck. Water pump issues often show up as loose belts or leaks, so I wiggle the pulley to check for looseness. Regular maintenance includes changing the coolant to prevent corrosion and blockages. Small leaks must be addressed immediately to avoid engine damage from overheating. These troubleshooting steps, from simple to complex, help me stay calm and avoid breakdowns whenever I spot warning signs.

When encountering cooling system issues, I prefer starting with basic checks. Before starting the car, inspect the coolant level and color – if it appears black or foamy, there might be air intrusion or contamination. Examine each hose connection point, gently squeezing the hoses to check elasticity, as aging cracks can lead to leaks. Don’t overlook the radiator’s exterior; dust-clogged fins impair cooling efficiency. After engine startup, I closely monitor the temperature gauge. Abnormal spikes prompt a thermostat check—for example, feeling hose temperature differences after warming up: if the upper hose is hot while the lower remains cool, the thermostat may be stuck closed. Listen for pump noise or wobble, and ensure the belt isn’t too loose, causing insufficient RPM. If the fan activates too late or fails to spin, I test voltage by unplugging/reconnecting its connector. Finally, I recommend a pressure test before long trips—shops use tools to pressurize the system, pinpointing minor leaks. This comprehensive approach saves time and effort while extending engine life.

I think diagnosing cooling system issues should start with daily habits. Check the coolant reservoir level when the engine is cold, ensuring it's within the standard line; top up with specialized fluid if it's too low. Then run the engine for a few minutes when warm to see if the temperature gauge reading is stable. Open the hood, feel the temperature of the hoses and whether the radiator is hot. The fan should start automatically; no sound might indicate a sensor failure. Listen for any hissing or leaking sounds from the water pump, as belt damage is also common. If you suspect the thermostat is stuck, you can remove it and immerse it in hot water to check its opening degree. Use simple tools to test pressure, avoiding complex instruments. Pay attention to how quickly the coolant is consumed each time you drive, as this can prevent major failures.


