How to bleed the clutch slave cylinder after replacement on Baojun 560?
3 Answers
There are three methods to bleed the clutch slave cylinder on Baojun 560: 1. Gravity bleeding method. First, fill the brake fluid reservoir completely. The clutch shares the same reservoir with the brake system, typically located near the driver's side dashboard at the junction between the door and windshield. After filling, locate the bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder underneath the vehicle. Loosen the screw just enough to allow fluid flow without completely removing it. Observe the fluid flow for air bubbles. Continue until no bubbles emerge for about 3-5 minutes. Tighten the screw and repeatedly depress the clutch pedal until it feels firm. Test drive and repeat if necessary. Important: Maintain adequate brake fluid level in the reservoir to prevent air from re-entering the system. This method is suitable for single-person operation. 2. Two-person bleeding method. The procedure is similar. Fill the brake fluid reservoir completely. One person operates the clutch pedal inside the vehicle while another works at the slave cylinder. The pedal operator should pump the clutch several times and hold it down. Meanwhile, the assistant loosens the bleeder screw with a wrench (caution: avoid fluid spray to the face), then tightens it while the pedal operator releases and repeats pumping. If the pedal doesn't return, use your foot to pull it back up. Repeat until proper clutch operation is achieved. Important: Maintain fluid level by adding brake fluid as needed. 3. Pressure bleeding method. For vehicles with long clutch lines (e.g., buses) where conventional methods are ineffective, apply compressed air to pressurize the brake fluid reservoir (3-5 seconds maximum to avoid emptying the reservoir) while keeping the bleeder screw open. Repeat the process of adding fluid and pressurizing until all air is removed.
Last time I replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my Baojun 560, bleeding the system required two people to cooperate smoothly. Find a helper—one person sits in the driver's seat and presses the clutch pedal repeatedly a few times to get a feel for it; the other person locates the small bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, gently loosens it with a wrench, and lets some air out when the pedal is fully depressed, then quickly tightens the screw before lifting the pedal again. Repeat this process a few times until the fluid coming out of the reservoir shows no bubbles, and you're done. Throughout the process, make sure the reservoir doesn’t run dry—keep it topped up with clutch fluid (preferably DOT3 or DOT4), or air will get in and cause problems again. Poor bleeding can lead to incomplete clutch disengagement and gear-shifting issues. After finishing, start the car and test-drive for a few minutes to ensure everything works properly. That time I skipped bleeding out of laziness, and the gears were hard to engage when I drove off—had to redo the job. Remember—don’t overlook the details.
Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder is simple and fun! I often do this job myself: invite a friend to help, one person quickly pumps the clutch pedal from the driver's seat while the other opens the bleed screw on the slave cylinder with a wrench, tightening it when bubbles appear as the pedal is depressed. It's recommended to attach a clear hose to the bleed port leading to an oil container, making it easy to see when bubbles disappear and fluid flows smoothly. The slave cylinder is located below the engine bay—keep it clean. Keep the fluid reservoir topped up during bleeding to prevent air from being drawn back in. After bleeding, test drive the car; the clutch pedal should feel firmer for a successful job. If it feels spongy, there might be residual air, requiring a few more rounds of bleeding. Just use common wrenches—no need to complicate things. Safety first: perform this with the engine off. These little tricks make it easy and save a lot of hassle.
