
Bleeding the brakes should be connected to the vacuum booster. Here is a partial introduction about brake bleeding: 1. Brake system principle: The principle of the brake system is relatively simple. Starting from the brake pedal, it is connected to a vacuum booster, making it easier for the driver to press the brake. Then, it goes from the brake fluid reservoir to the ABS pump, and then to the four brake fluid lines, which squeeze the pistons to press the brake pads against the brake discs to achieve the braking effect. Brake fluid contains a certain amount of water, and continuous compression in the fluid lines will turn the water into air, causing the brakes to feel soft. 2. Air bleeding method: The method of bleeding air is also relatively simple, usually done together when changing the brake fluid. There are bleed screws on all four brake calipers, with high-end models having two, but generally one. After bleeding all four calipers, test the brakes again. If they still feel soft, continue bleeding.

I've watched quite a few DIY tutorials, and bleeding the brake system is mainly done to address spongy brakes. You'll need an assistant, and should prepare a transparent bleeder tube and container. The specific steps involve having your friend repeatedly pump the brake pedal while you loosen the bleeder screw on the brake caliper - this allows dirty fluid and air bubbles to escape through the clear tube. The crucial part is monitoring the fluid's condition - when the tube shows no more bubbles and the brake fluid runs clean, the bleeding is complete. Remember to constantly top up the master cylinder reservoir, otherwise air will get in and you'll have to start over. This maintenance is recommended every two years or 40,000 km, especially in humid southern regions where brake fluid absorbs moisture more easily, affecting performance. Always wear gloves when handling brake fluid as it's quite corrosive.

I remember when I was fixing cars, I dealt with quite a few cases of spongy brakes. If you're doing it yourself, you'll need a set of professional tools, including a specialized airtight wrench and transparent brake bleeder hose. The key is to work on all four wheels in sequence, starting with the right rear wheel and finishing with the left front wheel. The technique involves loosening the bleeder screw while pressing the pedal, then immediately tightening it when the pedal reaches the bottom. Repeat this process until the fluid stream shows no bubbles. Throughout the procedure, make sure the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't drop below the minimum mark, or you'll have to start over. When changing the fluid, it's recommended to use DOT4 or higher grade, especially for vehicles that frequently drive on mountain roads. For older cars with rusted bleeder screws, extra caution is needed—never force them open.

Simply put, it's a four-step process: Prepare new brake fluid and a container for the used oil; operate in the order of right rear - left rear - right front - left front; two people cooperate to press the pedal while loosening and tightening the bleed valve; maintain the fluid level in the reservoir throughout the process. When you notice the pedal getting softer with each press, it's especially important to check the brake fluid's water content—replace it if it exceeds 3%. For modified cars or those with ABS, it's best to use a diagnostic computer to assist with bleeding.


