
Clean the area of the car body where the sticker will be applied. You can use a non-fiber-shedding cloth dipped in 50% alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or acetone to scrub, or you can use soapy water. After cleaning, avoid recontamination. Wait until the solvent has completely evaporated from the surface before applying the sticker. Smooth the sticker with a tool while applying it, and peel off the backing paper at the same time.

I've gone through the process of applying car decals several times, and it basically involves three steps: First, thoroughly clean the car body, using alcohol to remove oil film and dust, otherwise the decal won't stick properly. Next, positioning is crucial—I usually spray a bit of soapy water on both the car body and the back of the decal before applying it, which allows for minor adjustments. Once aligned, use a squeegee to remove air bubbles from the center outward, the more meticulous the better. Remember to work in a shaded area, as direct sunlight can cause the adhesive to dry too quickly and lead to bubbles. If small bubbles appear, just poke a tiny hole with a needle and squeeze them out. After completion, avoid washing the car for 48 hours to let the adhesive fully cure. A cautionary tale: Last time, I misaligned a decal on the hood, and when I tried to peel it off, it left sticky residue. It took me two hours to clean it off with adhesive remover, and my hands were sore afterward.

When applying car decals, there are several key points to note: The temperature of the car body is crucial. In winter when temperatures are low, it's best to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive backing of the decal first. I usually use transfer film to assist with positioning—after peeling off the backing paper, apply the decal to the car body with the transfer film, adjust it properly, and then slowly remove the transfer film. Use a plastic squeegee to gently smooth out air bubbles along the grain; avoid using metal tools as they can scratch the paint. For curves, stretch and smooth the decal slowly, similar to applying a phone screen protector. For areas like the rear window, ensure that visibility is not obstructed, as traffic regulations require a light transmittance of no less than 70%. If small wrinkles appear after application, heating them with a hair dryer and re-smoothing with the squeegee usually solves the problem. Remember, the total area of decals on the car should not exceed 30% to avoid being stopped by authorities.

Applying car decals is actually super easy: prepare a spray bottle with soapy water, a utility knife, and a credit card. Clean the car body thoroughly and then spray it with soapy water. Peel off the backing of the decal and also spray it with soapy water—wet application allows you to adjust the position freely. Once aligned, use the credit card to squeegee out the water from the center outward, maintaining a 45-degree angle with even pressure. Soften the edges with a heat gun and press them down firmly. Pro tip: For letter decals, arrange them on transfer tape first, then apply the whole set at once for a neater look. That’s how I applied the funny slogan on my rear bumper—it hasn’t peeled in two years. Avoid applying decals on the windshield as it may obstruct vision, and don’t place them on the hood to prevent glare.

Avoid these pitfalls when applying car decals: Poor surface preparation is the biggest mistake. Once I applied decals without removing wax, and the edges lifted within three days. Always use professional cleaners on bonding surfaces, especially for new cars with protective wax. Use painter's tape for alignment marks—it's far more precise than eyeballing. Choose flexible materials for plastic parts and heat-resistant ones for metal surfaces. When removing bubbles, follow a cross-shaped squeegee path for thoroughness. For stubborn bubbles, inject adhesive with a syringe for repairs. Remember, decals thicker than 3mm count as illegal modifications—a friend got fined 200 yuan for overly thick wheel arch decals.


