
Adjusting your car's headlights is a straightforward task you can do at home with minimal tools. The core goal is to align the beams so they illuminate the road effectively without blinding oncoming drivers. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver, a tape measure, masking tape, and a flat wall or garage door. Properly aimed low beams have a distinct cutoff line that should sit at or just below the height of the headlight centers on the wall.
First, prepare your car and the workspace. Park on level ground about 10 to 15 feet from a wall. Check tire pressure, ensure the gas tank is at least half full, and have someone sit in the driver's seat to simulate normal weight. On the wall, mark a vertical line center to the car and measure the exact height of your headlights' centers from the ground. Create a horizontal line on the wall at this measured height; this is your main reference point.
Locate the adjustment screws on each headlight assembly. Most vehicles have two screws: one for vertical adjustment (up/down) and one for horizontal (left/right). They are typically Phillips or hex-head screws accessible from the top or rear of the assembly. Turn on your low beams and cover one headlight. Using the screws, adjust the beam of the uncovered headlight so the bright, hot spot of the beam is directly below the horizontal line on the wall and the cutoff line is level. Repeat for the other side. For high beams, the center of the most intense part of the beam should be aligned with the cross-point of your vertical and horizontal lines.
| Adjustment Factor | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Distance from Wall | 25 feet (7.6 meters) | Standard distance for most vehicles; check your owner's manual. |
| Vertical Tilt | 2.0 to 4.0 inches below headlight center | Prevents blinding oncoming traffic. |
| Horizontal Aim | 0 to 2.0 inches to the right of center (for LHD vehicles) | Improves roadside visibility without glaring. |
| Adjustment Screw Type | Phillips #2, Hex 4mm/5mm, or Torx T15/T20 | Varies by manufacturer; have a multi-bit set handy. |
| Headlight Height Measurement | Measure from ground to center of low-beam projector/lens. | Critical for establishing the baseline on the wall. |
If you're unsure or your vehicle has complex adaptive or LED headlights, consulting a professional is recommended to avoid compromising road safety.

You basically need a flat wall and a screwdriver. Park close to the wall and turn on your low beams. Put a piece of tape on the wall to mark the top of the light beam. Then back the car up about 25 feet. If the beams are way above the tape, they're aimed too high. Pop the hood, find the adjustment screws near the headlights—they're usually obvious—and turn them a little bit. Check the wall again. It’s a lot of back-and-forth, but it’s easy. Just don't point them into the trees.

My dad taught me this. It’s all about not being that driver who blinds everyone. Find a level spot in front of your garage door at night. The light pattern should have a sharp horizontal line; that’s the cutoff. You want that line to be a little lower than the actual center of your headlight. There are little screws on the top or back of the headlight housing. A quarter-turn makes a big difference. It’s satisfying to get it right and know you’re driving safely.

Safety is the biggest reason to do this. Misaligned headlights reduce your visibility at night and create a hazard for other drivers. The process itself is simple, but the consequence of error is real. If you’re not confident, a quick trip to a service center is inexpensive. They have precise aiming machines. It’s a small investment for a critical safety feature. Think of it like checking your tire pressure—it’s basic maintenance that keeps everyone safer.


