
Use a jack to lift the rear of the car so that the two rear wheels can rotate. Adjust the car's gear. If it's an automatic transmission, shift to P gear; if it's a manual transmission, shift to 1st or 2nd gear. Adjust the handbrake to an appropriate tightness. If it's too tight, the screws may not turn; if it's too loose, parts inside the handbrake may block the view of the screws. After adjustment, fully release the handbrake and check if the rear wheels can rotate. Both rear wheels should be checked to prevent wheel lock.

Adjusting the handbrake on the Haima M5 is something I've tried several times myself, and I believe the key lies in finding the right adjustment point. Park the car on level ground and turn off the engine, then pull the handbrake and listen for the clicking sound. If the car still rolls after seven or eight clicks, it means the handbrake is too loose. Use a jack to lift the rear wheels and secure the car frame with safety stands—don't cut corners by using bricks, as it's very dangerous. Next, crouch under the car and look for a square nut near the rear axle. Use a 13mm wrench to tighten it clockwise by half a turn and test it. Lower the car afterward and find a small slope to check if the car stops firmly after three clicks. If it's still loose, make slight adjustments, but be careful not to overtighten and damage the cable. I recommend using a torque wrench for more precision. After each adjustment, take a test drive on a hilly road to verify the effect. Doing this maintenance regularly can prevent overheating accidents with the brakes. Safety first—if you're not confident, ask a friend to assist you.

When inspecting the Haima M5, I always pay attention to the safety of the handbrake system. Improper adjustment could lead to disastrous consequences if the car rolls away. The simple process involves pulling the handbrake lever several times to check if the travel distance exceeds the limit. Find a flat road, turn off the engine, and ensure the car is securely supported before proceeding. Near the centerline under the car, there is a cable nut—use a wrench to tighten it slowly by a small quarter-turn, avoiding haste. If it's loose, make additional adjustments. Test the effectiveness by stopping on a slope to ensure the car stays in place after pulling the handbrake three times. Wear gloves during the process to prevent scratches, and perform adjustments every 10,000 kilometers to avoid rust. Don’t forget to check the wear on the brake linings—if they’re too thin, adjustments won’t help, and replacements will be necessary. If unsure, it’s best to handle it during regular maintenance for peace of mind and safety.

As a new car owner, I adjusted the handbrake of my Haima M5, which is similar to reeling in a kite string. First, sit in the car and pull the handbrake to test if it feels tight. If it's loose, lift the car securely and locate the small screw head at the rear end of the cable to tighten it a bit. After adjusting, immediately test if the car stays still on a slope without sliding. If it doesn't work, loosen it slightly and readjust. Always prioritize safety and avoid tampering blindly. If you're unsure, refer to the manual or visit a repair shop for advice.


