
Steps to adjust the car handbrake: 1. Check if the handbrake is functioning properly; 2. Inspect the position of the car's handbrake lever; 3. When the handbrake lever is pulled up to 70%, the car's handbrake braking system is in the normal braking position. If the braking effect of the handbrake is not satisfactory, it can be resolved by adjusting the handbrake's operating cable. At the very bottom of the handbrake lever where it connects to the cable, there is an adjustable compensation mechanism that can be used for adjustment. To test the performance of the handbrake, drive the car to a steep slope, press the brake pedal, and shift the car into neutral gear—whether it's a manual or automatic transmission, the gear should be in neutral. Once the car is stationary, pull the handbrake lever to the appropriate position and then slowly release the brake pedal. If the car does not roll, it indicates that the handbrake's braking effect is excellent.

Last time I helped my neighbor adjust the handbrake and found it wasn't as complicated as imagined. First, find a small slope, don't step on the foot brake, shift to neutral, and pull the handbrake. Count the clicks—seven or eight clicks are normal. Too few means it needs adjustment. Lift the rubber cover under the handbrake lever to reveal the adjustment nut. Use a 12mm wrench to tighten or loosen the nut, testing the tightness on a roadside slope every half turn. Be careful not to over-tighten, as it can cause the rear wheels to overheat while driving, which is dangerous. That time, I didn't even need to remove the tires and finished in 20 minutes, saving over 200 yuan in labor costs.

As someone who has owned three older cars, adjusting the handbrake follows the principle of starting with the easy before tackling the difficult. First, retrieve the toolkit next to the spare tire from the trunk, then use a Phillips screwdriver to pry open the rear cover of the center console. The key is locating those two silver cables and identifying the adjustment nut. For most family cars, turning clockwise tightens it, but some Japanese models require counterclockwise adjustment. After tightening the nut, a test drive is essential: on level ground, the car shouldn't roll when the handbrake is pulled up three clicks, and it should start smoothly at five clicks to pass. Once, I rushed the job without testing, resulting in smoking brake discs in the underground garage—wasting half a day's work and having to redo it all.

DIY adjustment depends on the vehicle model. For sedans, you can usually access the adjustment nut by lifting the armrest box cover, but SUVs may require removing the center console. On my old Tiguan, the adjustment port was hidden under the cup holder, requiring removal of two T20 screws. Keep a rag handy when turning the nut to catch metal shavings - older cars often have rusty threads. My routine is to spin the rear wheels freely after adjustment, then verify the wheels rotate with difficulty when the handbrake is engaged. Always wear gloves - metal burrs are painful. Final tip: For vehicles over 5 years old, it's wise to inspect the brake pads simultaneously since the issue isn't always the cable.

The manual handbrake has four key points: the adjustment nut is hidden under the lever base; use a 10-14mm open-end wrench; the standard travel is 4-7 clicks when pulled up; there should be slight play in the rear wheels when fully engaged. Last week I discovered a trick while adjusting my own car: first release the handbrake completely, tighten the nut all the way then loosen it by 45 degrees - this gives more precise adjustment than doing it by feel. Always road test after adjustment, especially monitoring brake temperature after continuous downhill braking. If you hear screeching friction sounds, redo the adjustment immediately - my wife encountered this situation once, the wheel hubs were frighteningly hot to touch.


