
Step on or hold the brake and keep it pressed down. Loosen the screw on the brake caliper, and brake fluid will seep out. After 2 seconds, tighten the screw. Throughout the entire process, keep the brake pressed down without releasing it. Once the screw is tightened, you can release the brake. Pump the brake repeatedly about a dozen times to enhance bedding-in.

Adjusting motorcycle brake tightness depends on the specific model and brake type. For a drum brake rear wheel, you can usually find an adjustment nut near the rear axle. Tighten it by turning clockwise with a wrench, and loosen by turning counterclockwise. Pay attention to the brake clearance during adjustment, maintaining a free travel of 2-3 cm is ideal – too tight may cause lock-up and skidding. For front cable brakes, there's an adjustment screw below the handlebar; turning it changes the brake feel. For disc brakes, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir near the handlebar – low fluid increases lever travel. Always test after adjustment: apply front brake at low speed to check for wheel lock-up, and test rear brake for stability. Beginners are advised to seek guidance, as the brake system is critical for safety.

Just adjusted a friend's motorcycle brakes last week, the rear drum brake is the simplest. Locate the adjuster near the chain, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting arm, testing the brake pedal travel after each half-turn. Too tight and the wheel won't rotate freely, wearing the brake pads; too loose and it won't stop effectively. Front cable brakes usually have a dial at the lever base—just finger-adjust for tension. For disc brakes, check the hydraulic lines and calipers, but I'd advise against tampering with the hydraulic system unless you're experienced. Always keep the bike upright when adjusting, ensuring even clearance on both sides to prevent pulling. Finally, test emergency braking—feel the force at 40 mph to ensure peace of mind after adjustment.

I usually check the brake type first before making adjustments. For drum brakes, locate the adjustment nut on the side of the wheel and turn it a few times with a wrench to feel the change in resistance. If disc brakes feel spongy at the lever, it might be due to air in the hydraulic line or a leak, which is best left to a bike shop. Cable-actuated brakes are the easiest: there's an adjustment knob near the brake lever—turn it clockwise to increase tension or counterclockwise for more comfortable lever travel. The ideal setup is when the rear brake locks the wheel slightly when fully depressed, and the front brake starts biting at about one-quarter lever travel. Never skip testing—after adjustments, perform several low-speed stops in a safe area to check for locking or skidding. Especially on wet roads, avoid over-tightening to prevent loss of traction.


