
Unscrew the oil dipstick to check if there is any oil or if the oil is black. If there is very little oil or it is very black, you need to add new oil. Turn the oil dipstick counterclockwise to open it. Remove the oil dipstick. After removing it, wipe the oil dipstick clean with a cloth or paper towel, then put it back in place. Take out the oil dipstick again and check it. If it indeed needs to be replaced, drain the old oil. Then add the new oil.

I'm used to changing motorcycle oil myself after all these years of riding. First, start the engine and let it warm up for ten minutes to make the old oil flow better – remember to park steadily before shutting it off. Wait two minutes for the engine to cool down to avoid burning your hands, and wear gloves for safety. Locate the drain plug underneath, use the right wrench to turn it counterclockwise, and collect the old oil in a pan for proper disposal – never pour it randomly. After draining, clean the plug hole and check the washer; replace if worn. Next, change the oil filter: find the correct position with the right tool, remove the old filter, apply a bit of new oil on the new filter's seal ring to prevent leaks, then tighten it firmly but not excessively. Add new oil through the filler hole using a funnel – buy the correct grade like 10W-40 (check the manual) and pour slowly. Don't stop immediately after filling; start the engine for a minute, then shut it off and check the oil level with the dipstick – the midpoint is ideal. Avoid overfilling to prevent smoke. Change the oil every 5,000 km to protect the engine. It's simple and safe if you have all tools – doing it at home saves hassle and money.

As someone who enjoys hands-on work, I love DIY motorcycle oil changes to save money and learn. Prepare new oil, a funnel, a wrench, an old bucket, and gloves. Step 1: Ride a short distance for ten minutes to warm the oil, then park and turn off the engine—key point: don’t do it when the engine is scalding hot to avoid burns. Wait a few minutes for it to cool. Wear gloves, unscrew the drain plug under the chassis, and drain the oil slowly into the bucket for safety. Don’t forget to replace the oil filter—unscrew the old one, apply new oil to the new filter before installing to prevent seizing. Then pour in new oil using a funnel, controlling the amount—add small amounts at a time. The manual specifies the capacity; don’t exceed the upper limit on the dipstick. After adding, start the bike and let it run for thirty seconds, then turn it off and check the oil level, topping up if necessary. Common beginner mistakes are overfilling or skipping the filter. Do it a few times to get the hang of it—DIY takes less than half an hour, hones your skills, and the tool investment is small but cost-effective in the long run.

When I first started learning car repair, I relied on online tutorials for oil changes. Here's a simple rundown of my steps: Ride the motorcycle for 5 to 10 minutes to warm it up, then stop and turn off the engine—this is crucial. Wait five minutes for it to cool down. Wear gloves, unscrew the drain plug, and use a pan to catch the old oil, trying to drain as much as possible. Replace the oil filter with the correct model, applying a bit of oil to the seal before installing it. Then, pour in new oil slowly using a funnel—don’t overfill. Check the dipstick. After adding oil, start the engine and let it run for half a minute, then turn it off and check the oil level again; stop when it reaches the midpoint. Use the correct SAE oil, like 10W-40, as per the manual—don’t skimp on cost. The first time I did it, I overfilled and it smoked—learned to take it slow. Do this regularly to avoid major repairs.


