
The Magotan's antifreeze should be replaced every two years or 40,000 kilometers. Method for replacing antifreeze: Before completely replacing the antifreeze, conduct a thorough inspection to check for any signs of leakage or cracks in the pipes, with a particular focus on the five-way hose. The five-way hose is named for its five connections to various parts, and the antifreeze flows through it before being distributed to different parts of the car to function. If there is any leakage of antifreeze in this section, the hose should be replaced or the connections re-secured as needed. Drain the old antifreeze, then flush the fluid channels with clean water. Add clean water to the antifreeze reservoir, then continue to fill the reservoir with water to allow it to circulate continuously through the engine cooling system. Start the engine and let it idle for 3 to 5 minutes to circulate the water. The water initially flowing out of the reservoir will have a faint pink color. Continue adding clean water until the water runs clear. Note: Remember to remove the heater hose and drain the water from the heater core. After draining for about an hour, add the new antifreeze through the radiator hose to allow it to flow quickly into the radiator. Then, add another bottle of antifreeze to the antifreeze reservoir until it is nearly full. Start the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes. As the cooling system expels some air, the fluid level will drop. Add more antifreeze until it reaches the "MAXT" mark on the reservoir.

Speaking of the replacement cycle for Magotan's coolant, based on my experience driving a Magotan, it generally needs to be changed every 2 years or around 40,000 kilometers. For more precise information, it's best to refer to the maintenance manual, as there might be slight variations depending on the vehicle's model year. When coolant deteriorates, it can form sediment and impurities, which may clog the pipes. Last year, my car's temperature was inexplicably high, and it turned out to be due to deteriorated coolant that hadn't been changed for too long. The main component of coolant is ethylene glycol, which oxidizes over time and loses its antifreeze and anti-boil functions. Once, a mechanic showed me a sample of deteriorated coolant—its color changes from bright to cloudy. I recommend having the fluid level and freezing point checked during every maintenance service. Don’t overlook it in the summer either, as the cooling system’s circulation is crucial for heat dissipation.

I've been driving this Magotan for five or six years, basically changing the coolant every two years. Last time I tested the old fluid, the freezing point was only around minus ten degrees Celsius, and I was really worried about the radiator cracking in winter. Actually, checking the manual is the safest bet, but for ordinary people, remembering a simple cycle is enough. Pay attention to the coolant level in the expansion tank; if it's below the MIN mark, top it up with distilled water. There was a time when my car's heater wasn't blowing hot air, and it turned out the circulation pipes were clogged. Owners in northern regions need to change it more frequently because the antifreeze performance of the original fluid degrades quickly in extremely low temperatures. After each change, remember to bleed the air out, as air bubbles in the cooling system can seriously affect heat dissipation. Long-term neglect can also corrode the water pump and engine block waterways, and repairs can cost way more than a few hundred bucks.

The Magotan's coolant is recommended to be replaced every two years. Deterioration can cause sediment to precipitate, clogging the radiator's fine tubes. The key component, corrosion inhibitors, lose effectiveness over time, leading to honeycomb-like corrosion in the aluminum engine block. I once disassembled an old radiator, and the inside was completely covered in rust. After deterioration, the boiling point drops, making overheating more likely in summer. In winter, the freezing point rises, potentially causing pipes to freeze and crack. During routine maintenance, using a refractometer to measure the freezing point is the most accurate method; if it drops below -25°C, it's time for a replacement. Regularly check the color of the reservoir; if it appears cloudy or darkens, it's a warning sign.


