
Newly purchased scooters generally require the first oil change at 350 kilometers. The second oil change should be done between 800 to 1,000 kilometers, and the third at 1,500 kilometers. After that, the oil should be changed every 2,000 to 3,000 kilometers. Functions of engine oil: Engine oil not only lubricates the engine but also cleans, seals, cushions, prevents rust, and dissipates heat. If the oil is not changed for a long time, it will accelerate engine wear. Methods to determine if the oil needs changing: Smell test: Pull out the dipstick and smell it closely. If there is a strong sour odor, the oil has deteriorated and should be changed. Finger rub test: Rub the old oil between your thumb and forefinger repeatedly. If you feel impurities, poor viscosity, or even a gritty sensation, it should be changed. Color test: Place a few drops of old oil on a clean white filter paper. After the oil has seeped in, good-quality oil will leave no powder, feel dry and smooth to the touch, and have a clear yellow infiltration zone. If the oil appears dark brown or has impurities, it should be changed.

As someone who deals with motorcycles every day, I've noticed many riders come asking if they should change their blackened engine oil before even hitting 500 km on a new bike. The manufacturer's manual is actually the safest guide: recommend first oil change at 300-500 km for new bikes, then mineral oil every 2,000 km, while full synthetic can last up to 3,000 km. Last week, a customer with a brand-new Yamaha scooter stubbornly rode 1,000 km before changing - when we pulled the dipstick, the metal shavings were thicker than sesame paste. This kind of engine-damaging behavior really needs warning. Remember, oil change intervals aren't just about mileage: riders who frequently carry passengers uphill or ride long distances in hot weather should shorten maintenance cycles by one-third.

I'm used to calling engine oil the blood of the engine. A new scooter is as delicate as a newborn—the first oil change to remove metal break-in particles must be done within 800 km. After that, unscrew the dipstick every three months or 1,500 km to check—if it's blackened or the viscosity has decreased, change it. There's an interesting phenomenon: weekend commuters are most likely to neglect the schedule, thinking they don't need to change the oil until the mileage is up. Then one day, when they twist the throttle, the engine suddenly coughs and clunks. I remember repairing a Honda NS125 last year—the oil had thickened into malt syrup, yet the owner kept riding.

Having played with modified scooters for ten years, the phrase 'wait until the oil light comes on to change it' is the last thing I want to hear. The first service for a new bike must be within 500 kilometers! Especially now with the high precision of fuel-injected bikes, the aluminum shavings from wear can clog the fuel injectors. After that, the oil change interval depends on usage intensity: for casual commuting, use mineral oil and change every 2,000 kilometers; for those who frequently rev high, it's recommended to use full synthetic oil and change every 3,000 kilometers. Last year at a track day, I saw a hardcore guy add racing oil to a Yamaha Jog, but for daily use, full synthetic is sufficient. Bikes with modified transmission systems need more frequent changes, as gear engagement wears out the oil faster.


