
The maximum weight you can safely put in a car is its payload capacity, which is the difference between its Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and its curb weight. Typically, this ranges from 850 to 1,800 pounds for most sedans and SUVs. Exceeding this limit is dangerous and can cause severe damage to your vehicle's suspension, brakes, and tires.
To find your car's specific payload capacity, the most reliable method is to check the driver's side door jamb sticker. This sticker lists the vehicle's GVWR and its Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR). Subtract your car's curb weight (its weight with all fluids but no passengers or cargo) from the GVWR to get the actual payload. For example, if your SUV's GVWR is 6,000 lbs and its curb weight is 4,500 lbs, your payload capacity is 1,500 lbs. This number must include all passengers, cargo, and any aftermarket accessories like a roof rack or hitch.
It’s not just about the total weight, but also how you distribute it. Heavier items should be placed low and centered between the axles. Overloading a vehicle, even slightly, compromises handling, increases braking distances, and can lead to catastrophic tire failure. The table below shows typical payload capacities for different vehicle types.
| Vehicle Type | Typical Payload Capacity Range (lbs) | Example Models |
|---|---|---|
| Compact Sedan | 850 - 950 | Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla |
| Midsize SUV | 1,200 - 1,500 | Honda Passport, Ford Explorer |
| Full-Size Pickup Truck | 1,500 - 3,000+ | Ford F-150, Ram 1500 |
| Minivan | 1,200 - 1,400 | Honda Odyssey, Chrysler Pacifica |
| Subcompact Crossover | 900 - 1,100 | Hyundai Kona, Mazda CX-30 |
Remember, towing adds additional strain. The weight of a loaded trailer and the tongue weight (the downward force the trailer hitch applies to your vehicle) counts directly against your payload capacity, not just your towing rating.

Check the yellow and white sticker on the driver's door frame. It'll have the numbers you need. My rule of thumb is to never load up my SUV so much that the rear end is sagging badly. If it looks low, it's probably overloaded. It's not worth the risk of blowing a tire or wearing out the brakes prematurely. Just make a second trip if you have to.

As someone who frequently helps friends move, I think about this a lot. It's not just the weight; it's the distribution. Piling everything high in the back can make the front end feel light and steering less precise. I always put the heaviest boxes right above the rear axle and keep lighter stuff for the seats. It makes a huge difference in how the car drives on the highway.

We learned this the hard way on a family camping trip. We had the car packed to the roof with gear, coolers, and five people. The car felt sluggish and the brakes were scary on mountain roads. We were probably over the limit. Now I always weigh our big bins of gear on a bathroom scale beforehand and add everyone's weight to be sure. Safety for my family comes first.

Think of your car's suspension and frame like the foundation of a house. They're engineered to support a specific load, the GVWR. Going over that is like adding an extra floor to a house not built for it. It stresses everything: the springs, shock absorbers, wheel bearings, and even the unibody structure. This leads to premature wear, poor handling, and potential failure points. Always respect the manufacturer's specified limits.


