
Repairing a keyed car can cost anywhere from $50 to over $2,500. The final price depends almost entirely on the depth and length of the scratch and the paint method required. A shallow scratch that hasn't penetrated the clear coat might be fixed for under $150 with a DIY kit, while a deep scratch that reaches the bare metal demands professional repainting of the entire panel, costing $500 to $1,000 or more. The key factor is the scratch's severity. Clear coat scratches are the most superficial and least expensive to fix. If the scratch has gone through the color layer but not the primer, it's a base coat scratch. The most expensive repairs are for deep primer scratches that expose the metal, requiring immediate attention to prevent rust. Labor costs and your car's paint color also significantly impact the price. Premium colors like pearlescent white or tri-coat reds are more complex and expensive to match. Here’s a breakdown of typical professional repair costs based on scratch depth: | Scratch Depth | Repair Method | Average Professional Cost | Key Considerations | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | Clear Coat Only | Polish & Compound | $50 - $150 | Often DIY-able; removes a thin layer of clear coat. | | Base Coat (Color Layer) | Touch-up Paint & Clear Coat | $150 - $400 | Requires color matching; may be slightly visible. | | Deep Primer/Metal | Sand, Fill, Repaint Entire Panel | $500 - $1,200+ | Necessary to prevent rust; most expensive option. | | Multiple Panels/Severe | Repaint Multiple Panels | $1,000 - $2,500+ | Cost multiplies if the vandalism spans doors, fenders, etc. | For a minor scratch, a high-quality DIY scratch removal kit can be a cost-effective solution. However, for anything beyond the clear coat, seeking a professional estimate from a reputable auto body shop is recommended to ensure the repair preserves your car's value and appearance. Always get at least two quotes.

If it's just a light surface scratch you can feel with your fingernail, you're in luck. A good polish and some elbow grease can often make it disappear for the cost of a kit, maybe $50 to $100. But if your nail catches in the groove, that means it's deep. Then you're looking at a professional repaint for that section. My advice? Get a couple of quotes from local body shops. Don't just go with the cheapest option; check their reviews.

The expense is primarily determined by the extent of the damage. A superficial mark on the clear coat is a relatively straightforward and inexpensive fix. However, if the vandalism has penetrated through to the primer or metal substrate, the repair process becomes vastly more complex, involving sanding, filling, and blending new paint. This necessitates a professional's skill to match the color and finish correctly, which is where the cost escalates significantly. Your vehicle's make and model can also influence the price due to paint specificity.

As someone who just went through this, the first thing you should do is check your insurance policy. Comprehensive coverage often covers vandalism, but you'll have to pay your deductible. For me, the repair quote was $800, and my deductible is $500. So I had to decide if it was worth filing a claim for a $300 payout, which could potentially raise my rates. For a smaller scratch, it's almost certainly not worth involving insurance. Just pay out of pocket.

I detail cars on the side, so I see this all the time. The biggest mistake people make is trying to use a cheap touch-up pen without proper prep. It ends up looking worse—a glob of paint in a scratch. If you're going the DIY route, proper cleaning, using a precision applicator, and leveling the paint are crucial steps. For anything more than a hairline scratch, a professional detailer can often wet-sand and polish it out for a fraction of a body shop's price, saving the original factory paint.


