
The amount a junkyard pays for a car varies widely, but you can generally expect to receive $150 to $800 for an average end-of-life vehicle. The final price is not a guess; it's a calculated offer based on three primary factors: the vehicle's scrap value (determined by its weight and current metal prices), the value of any usable salvage parts (like catalytic converters, wheels, or engines), and the costs the yard will incur for towing and processing.
Your car's worth is essentially the sum of its parts minus the junkyard's labor. The single most influential component is often the catalytic converter due to the precious metals it contains, which can sometimes be worth more than the rest of the car combined. A non-running car with a intact "cat" can fetch a significantly higher price than one without.
| Factor | Low-End Value Impact | High-End Value Impact | Key Determinants |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vehicle Weight | $100 - $150 (compact car) | $300 - $500 (large SUV/truck) | Current price of scrap steel/aluminum |
| Catalytic Converter | $0 (missing/damaged) | $150 - $800+ (intact, OEM) | Precious metal content (rhodium, palladium), vehicle model |
| Salvageable Parts | $50 (few usable parts) | $400+ (intact engine/transmission) | Demand for parts for your specific model, condition |
| Car's Location | -$100 (requires tow) | $0 (you deliver it) | Distance to the junkyard, need for specialized recovery |
| Vehicle Model & Year | Low demand for parts | High demand for parts (e.g., common Honda/Toyota) | Popularity of the model, rarity of specific components |
To get the best price, call several local junkyards for quotes. Have your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ready, and be prepared to accurately describe the car's condition and any major working parts. Remember, the offer is negotiable. If one yard offers $250, another might offer $400 based on their current inventory needs. Your best strategy is to get multiple offers.

It really depends on what's left on the car. If it starts and drives, even poorly, you'll get more. The big ticket item is the catalytic converter—if it's still there, that alone could be worth a few hundred bucks. Call a couple of local scrap yards, tell them the make, model, and condition, and they'll give you a quote over the phone. Don't just take the first offer; a quick call to a competitor can often get you $50 or $100 more. It's quick cash, but a little homework pays off.

Think of it less as selling a car and more as selling raw materials and a box of spare parts. The junkyard's offer is a math problem: (weight of metal x price per ton) + (value of key parts) - (their cost to tow and process it). The make and model matter a lot because a common car like a Ford F-150 has high demand for its parts, making it more valuable than a rare, outdated model with no parts market. The year is less important than the condition of the engine, transmission, and catalytic converter.

I just went through this with my old sedan. It hadn't run in years. The first yard offered me $200 to tow it away. I did some research, found out the alternator and wheels were in good shape, and mentioned that when I called the next yard. I also made sure to tell them the catalytic converter was original. The second yard offered me $450, and I drove it there on a flatbed tow dolly I rented for $50. So, netted $400. My advice? Know your car's valuable parts and be honest but highlight them. It makes a huge difference.

Beyond the obvious factors like size and condition, timing can influence the price. Metal commodities markets fluctuate daily. If steel prices are up, your car is worth more as scrap. Location is another key element; junkyards in rural areas with lower operating costs might offer slightly more than those in high-rent urban districts. Also, if your car is a model frequently used in demolition derbies or off-roading, there might be a niche demand for its body panels or drivetrain. Always ask if the quote is for them picking it up or if you deliver it; driving it there yourself can add $75-$100 to the final price.


