
The amount you can get for a scrap metal car varies widely, but a typical non-running sedan might fetch $300 to $800. The final price is almost entirely determined by the vehicle's core weight and the current scrap steel price per ton in your local market. Heavier vehicles like trucks and SUVs will be on the higher end of that range. To get the most accurate estimate, you'll need to know your car's weight and call local scrapyards for their current rates.
The primary factor is the weight of the recyclable metal. The price is quoted as a rate per hundredweight (CWT), which is $10 per 100 pounds. For example, if the scrap price is $200 per ton (2,000 lbs), a 3,000-pound car would have a base scrap value of about $300. However, this is just the starting point. Several other factors can significantly increase the final offer.
Parting-Out Potential: If your car has desirable components that are still functional, you can earn more. A scrapyard will pay extra for a working catalytic converter (which contains precious metals like rhodium and palladium), aluminum alloy wheels, a good condition transmission, or even a undamaged radiator. These parts are often worth more separately than the car's raw scrap metal value.
Location and Market Conditions: Scrap metal prices are commodity-driven and fluctuate daily based on global demand. Yards in industrial regions may pay more due to lower transportation costs to mills. It's crucial to get quotes from multiple buyers in your area. Additionally, some states have specific requirements for surrendering a title when scrapping a vehicle, which can affect the process.
| Factor Influencing Price | Low-End Value Impact | High-End Value Impact | Example Component/Scenario |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base Scrap Steel Price | $150/ton | $400/ton | Fluctuates daily with commodities market. |
| Vehicle Weight | 2,500 lbs (compact car) | 5,500 lbs (large SUV) | Directly multiplies with the price per ton. |
| Functional Catalytic Converter | +$0 (clogged/damaged) | +$500+ (for some models) | High precious metal content; varies by car model. |
| Aluminum Alloy Wheels | +$20 (for set of steel) | +$200 (for set of good alloys) | Lighter than steel, more valuable as scrap. |
| Ease of Towing | -$50 (hard to access) | +$0 (easy driveway access) | Impacts the scrapyard's cost to retrieve the vehicle. |
| Working AC Compressor | +$0 (seized) | +$150 (working, in-demand model) | A valuable part for resale. |
| Current Demand for Parts | Low (common model) | High (rare/classic car) | Affects the part-out value before crushing. |
To maximize your payout, remove any personal belongings and call at least three local salvage yards. Provide them with the vehicle's year, make, model, and condition. Ask for their current price per ton and if they charge any fees for towing. The best offer will balance a good price with a reputable, licensed service.

Call around. Don't just take the first offer. Prices change daily. Tell them what you've got—the year, model, and if it runs. Ask if they pick it up for free or charge a fee. A heavier car is always worth more. If you have time, pulling off the catalytic converter yourself can get you a lot more cash, but that's a job for someone with tools.

Think of it like this: they're paying for the weight. My old minivan was basically a giant paperweight, but a heavy one. I got $450 for it last fall. The guy at the yard said it was because steel prices were decent. The key is to be honest about the condition over the so there are no surprises when they show up. A free tow was part of the deal, which was a nice bonus.

It's not just about the metal. It's about what's still good on the car. Before you call the scrapyard, do a quick check. Are the tires okay? Do the windows roll up and down? Even small parts have value. I sold my old Civic for scrap, and they gave me an extra seventy bucks just for the radio and the alternator. It only took a few minutes to point those things out, and it put more money in my pocket.

The number you're looking for is the current price per ton. That's the magic number. Find that out from a local yard, then find your car's curb weight in the owner's manual or online. Multiply the weight (in tons) by the price per ton, and you'll have a solid ballpark figure. Remember, this is a negotiation. A ready-to-tow car with a clear title is easier for them to handle, so use that as leverage to get the best possible price.


