
The amount you can get for junking a car typically ranges from $200 to $1,000 or more, with the national average hovering around $500. The final price is not a single number but is determined by three main factors: the vehicle's current scrap value (based on weight and metal prices), the value of any salvageable parts (like a working transmission or catalytic converter), and the cost of towing it away. A heavier vehicle in a region with high steel prices will fetch more than a small car where scrap metal is cheap.
The single biggest factor is the car's weight. Junkyards primarily pay for the raw metal, which is sold by the ton to recyclers. The price of steel and other metals fluctuates daily. According to industry data from sources like J.D. Power, the average scrap car weighs between 3,000 and 4,000 pounds. At a typical scrap price of $150 to $300 per ton, the base metal value alone can be $225 to $600.
However, this is just the starting point. A junkyard will pay significantly more if your car has valuable, reusable components. The most lucrative part is often the catalytic converter due to its precious metals content; a working OEM converter can add $100 to $800+ to the offer. Other high-value parts include engines, transmissions, alternators, and infotainment screens in good working condition.
To give you a realistic idea, here is a table of estimated price ranges based on common scenarios:
| Vehicle Condition & Type | Estimated Payout Range | Key Factors Influencing Price |
|---|---|---|
| Standard Sedan (Non-Running) | $200 - $500 | Current scrap metal price per ton, vehicle weight. |
| SUV or Truck (Non-Running) | $400 - $800 | Heavier weight yields more scrap metal. |
| Car with Salvageable Engine/Transmission | $500 - $1,200 | Demand for those specific parts, their condition. |
| Car with Valuable Catalytic Converter | $600 - $1,500+ | Precious metals market, OEM vs. aftermarket part. |
| Rare or Classic Car (Even Non-Running) | $1,000 - $5,000+ | Part-out value to restoration community, rarity. |
The best way to get the most money is to get quotes from multiple buyers: local junkyards, national car-buying services, and salvage part companies. Have your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and a clear description of the car's condition ready. Remove personal belongings and, if possible, the license plate before pickup.

Honestly, it's all about the weight of the metal and if any big parts still work. My old Civic that wouldn't start? I got $350 for it. The guy said it was a light car and the scrap price was down that week. My advice? Call three different places. The quotes I got varied by over a hundred bucks. Just be ready to tell them the year, model, and what's wrong with it.

It's a bit more nuanced than people think. The base value comes from the steel, aluminum, and other metals, which is tied to volatile commodities markets. The real opportunity for a higher payout lies in the car's reusable components. A functioning alternator, a set of good alloy wheels, or an undamaged electronic control unit can be worth more than the scrap metal itself. I always recommend owners do a quick online search for the part numbers of major components to understand their potential value before accepting an offer.

I look at it as a simple equation. First, determine the car's dead weight and multiply it by the local price per ton for scrap metal—that's your absolute minimum. Second, inventory any core components that are in demand: engine, transmission, catalytic converter. These are your premiums. Finally, subtract the junkyard's estimated cost to collect and process the vehicle. Getting multiple quotes is essential because it reveals which buyer places the highest value on the specific salvageable parts your car possesses.


