
Car paint consists of four layers. Here is a related introduction about car paint: 1. Electrocoat Layer: The electrocoat layer can be roughly considered as the paint layer directly attached to the car body steel plate, so it is also called the primer. 2. Mid-coat Layer: The mid-coat layer is a paint layer between the electrocoat layer and the color coat layer, applied by robots using mid-coat paint. 3. Color Coat Layer: The color coat layer, as the name suggests, is the layer with color, providing the most direct visual perception of color, whether red, black, kingfisher blue, Pittsburgh gray, cashmere silver, or supersonic quartz white. 4. Clear Coat Layer: The clear coat layer is the outermost layer of car paint, a transparent layer that can be directly touched with fingertips.

I usually enjoy researching car maintenance, and actually, car paint is divided into four layers. The innermost layer is called the electrocoat layer, which is directly attached to the metal body of the car, mainly for corrosion protection—it's like putting a raincoat on the car body. Above that is the primer layer, which helps the paint adhere better and also absorbs the impact from small stones. The color layer is what everyone is most familiar with, directly determining whether your car is blue or red, and this layer is further divided into metallic paint and regular paint. The outermost layer is the clear coat, which acts like a transparent protective shield, guarding against both UV rays and scratches. Every time I wash my car, I make sure not to use low-quality detergents, as they can wear down the clear coat, causing the paint to look dull. Regular waxing is especially important for protecting these four layers.

When repairing cars, it's common to see the paint layers separated. The basic structure consists of four layers: the bottom layer is an electrophoretic coating for rust prevention, the middle layer is a primer to add thickness and impact resistance, the top layer is the base coat that provides color, and the surface layer is the clear coat that offers gloss and protection. Original factory painting requires each layer to be baked and cured, while DIY touch-ups usually involve just the base coat and clear coat. If only the surface clear coat is scratched, polishing can fix it; if the base coat is damaged, a touch-up pen is needed; if the primer is exposed, a respray is necessary to prevent rust. Color-changing wraps are actually new films applied over the clear coat, offering better protection for the original factory paint than repainting for color changes.

In automotive painting processes, mainstream manufacturers typically apply four layers of coating. The electrophoretic layer acts like a foundation, where the entire vehicle is immersed in a paint tank and electrically charged for adhesion; the primer layer serves as a functional layer to enhance adhesion; the basecoat determines the color and texture; while the clearcoat is the true showpiece. Most repair shops can't achieve all four layers, making factory paint the most valuable. Automotive paint thickness generally ranges between 120-180 microns, with German cars tending to be thicker and Japanese cars thinner. Improper washing can wear down the clearcoat, UV rays can fade the basecoat, and acid rain can corrode all layers, so regular maintenance is essential.


