
Car temperature gauge readings between 2 to 4 bars are within the normal range. Reasons for the temperature gauge not moving: 1. Power line is disconnected, or the temperature gauge's heating coil is burnt out; 2. The sensor's heating coil is burnt out or the contact points are not making good contact; 3. The voltage regulator supplying stable power to the temperature gauge circuit is damaged. The temperature gauge can be identified through the gauge itself and the warning light. When the engine temperature is about to rise into the high-temperature zone, the temperature gauge will light up. At this point, you should stop the car, unload the engine load, but do not turn off the engine. Let the engine idle for 5 minutes before turning it off. Then wait for the temperature to gradually decrease, and once the temperature indicator light returns to normal, you can start the vehicle and continue driving.

As a veteran driver with ten years of experience, I think the coolant temperature gauge really depends on the specific model. Take my old Jetta for example - its temperature gauge only has 4 segments. During normal driving, it usually stabilizes right in the middle of the second segment, and when stuck in traffic, I start getting alert if it climbs to the third segment. I remember once during a long trip when the needle suddenly shot up to the top of the fourth segment, which scared me into pulling over immediately - turned out the radiator fan was stuck. My new energy vehicle now uses a digital display instead, with the safe range marked by the green zone between 90-95°C. Whether it's analog or digital, sudden temperature spikes or prolonged low temperatures indicate problems. Especially in winter - if the temperature doesn't reach the middle range within ten minutes after cold start, the thermostat is likely faulty.

The mechanic at the repair shop told me that normal coolant temperature gauge readings depend on the vehicle's operating conditions. When starting a cold engine, the needle should gradually rise from the lowest mark and stabilize in the middle area of the dial after a few minutes. For example, on a common 4-mark temperature gauge, readings between the second and third marks during continuous driving are considered normal, which roughly translates to 85 to 95 degrees Celsius. If the needle jumps to the fourth mark immediately after starting or stays at the first mark even after half an hour of driving, there's definitely a problem. The other day, a car owner had their temperature gauge constantly stuck at the lowest mark. After inspection, it was found that the thermostat was stuck in the fully open position, causing the coolant to circulate in the large loop continuously, resulting in poor engine thermal efficiency. If this part fails and isn't repaired, you won't even get proper heating in the car during winter.

Novice drivers should pay attention to the important indicator of the coolant temperature gauge. When I picked up my car, the salesperson specifically demonstrated that the ideal position for the needle during normal driving is steady in the middle of the dial. Many cars are designed with a four-segment display, where typically the second and third segments indicate the safe range. Last month, while driving on mountain roads, the temperature suddenly jumped to the fourth segment. I immediately stopped to check and found the coolant level was below the minimum line. After topping up the antifreeze, it returned to normal. Remember, a malfunction light will illuminate when the coolant temperature is abnormal, but it's also important to develop the habit of regularly checking, especially during prolonged uphill driving or when using the air conditioning in hot weather. During regular maintenance, make sure to have the technician inspect the cooling system to avoid costly engine repairs.

There is no standardized number of segments for car coolant temperature gauges; it depends on the instrument panel design. My SUV has an eight-segment display, and during normal driving, the temperature stabilizes around the fifth segment. The key is maintaining a stable temperature—fluctuating needle movements indicate danger. Once, I noticed the temperature consistently hovering at the sixth segment, and upon inspection, found the radiator fins clogged with willow catkins. A high-pressure water rinse fixed the issue. The normal temperature range is around 85 to 95 degrees Celsius, corresponding to the needle position slightly left of center. In winter, avoid aggressive throttle input during cold starts—wait until the needle moves above the lowest segment before driving normally, as poor oil flow can accelerate engine wear.


