How Does the Oxygen Sensor Work?
3 Answers
Here is a detailed introduction to the working principle of the oxygen sensor: 1. The oxygen sensor utilizes the Nernst principle, with its core component being a porous ZrO2 ceramic tube, which is a solid electrolyte. Porous platinum (Pt) electrodes are sintered on both sides. 2. At a certain temperature, due to the difference in oxygen concentration on the two sides, oxygen molecules on the high-concentration side (inside the ceramic tube) are adsorbed onto the platinum electrode and combine with electrons (4e) to form oxygen ions O2-, making this electrode positively charged. The O2- ions migrate through oxygen ion vacancies in the electrolyte to the low-oxygen-concentration side (exhaust side), making that electrode negatively charged, thus generating a potential difference. 3. When the air-fuel ratio is low (rich mixture), there is less oxygen in the exhaust, so there are fewer oxygen ions on the outer side of the ceramic tube, generating an electromotive force of about 1.0V. When the air-fuel ratio equals 14.7, the electromotive force generated on both sides of the ceramic tube is 0.4V~0.5V, which serves as the reference electromotive force. When the air-fuel ratio is high (lean mixture), the oxygen content in the exhaust is higher, and the oxygen ion concentration difference between the inside and outside of the ceramic tube is smaller, resulting in a very low electromotive force, close to zero.
Remember when I flipped through the repair manual before, the oxygen sensor is essentially the air inspector in the exhaust pipe. It generates electricity through the oxygen concentration difference between the inside and outside of a zirconia ceramic tube, with voltage fluctuating between 0.1V and 0.9V—higher voltage indicates unburned fuel, while lower voltage means the fuel is burning too cleanly. The engine control unit (ECU) receives this signal and adjusts the fuel injection to maintain the air-fuel ratio at the golden 14.7:1. Once, while cleaning carbon deposits, I found the sensor in an old car clogged with carbon buildup, causing all the readings to go haywire. This component operates under high temperatures and typically lasts around 100,000 kilometers, so remember to regularly check for oxidation at the connectors.
I studied this thing when modifying my exhaust. The front oxygen sensor is installed at the rear section of the exhaust manifold, monitoring the oxygen content in the exhaust gases in real-time. It operates based on exhaust gas temperature and the properties of the zirconia tube—it simply can't function below 300°C. The voltage fluctuations are like Morse code to the ECU: 0.45V is the baseline, spiking to 0.9V means the mixture is too rich and needs less fuel, while dropping below 0.2V calls for immediate fuel increase. This thing is super delicate—using leaded gasoline or silicone sealant will kill it instantly. Last time my check engine light came on, it was because of crappy silicone sealant.
